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They Come and They Go
5.6 YDS 4c French 14 Ewbanks V UIAA 12 ZA S 4b British R
Avg: 0.5 from 2
votes
Routes in Apocalypse Walls
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An Elephant Never Forgets T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A1 PG13 |
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Apocalypse Later S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Bad Seed S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Captain Fingers S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Corporal Punishment S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Good Earth S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Kate's Arete S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Serenity Now S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Supreme Onion Sacrifice S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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They Come and They Go T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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| Type: | Trad, 110 ft (33 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Bradley White, Ed Hawes Nov. 2010 |
| Page Views: | 1,438 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | bradley white on Oct 20, 2010 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
Climb right side of off width by a tricky move up right that's not actually in the off width crack. After mounting ledge move further right to head back left to off width to do another tricky move to gain decent foot ledges. Above this is a small oak tree in the off width dirt now. Standing on the outside edges move up and clip tree. Go left onto knobby face and run it out to a bolt (5.4). At bolt moving left carefully on blocks is easiest way up here and awkward. Climb has gotten very lichen dirty now, move right up past bolt to small diagonal downward facing corner to move up to reach a 2 bolt belay. Climb filthy rock for 70ft with 2 protection anchors (5.2) to trees and rappel back to the bolt belay. Nice view and a very large, very dirty slab. There are fragrant ferns in this area that can be easily avoided.
Location
Downhill from 'Supreme Onion Sacrifice' is a 30ft wall. On the west side of this wall, it meets another wall at an off width crack corner after an uphill scramble passing an oak tree.
Protection
5 bolts and some medium hexes or friends and one large piece or just run it out on the three lowest bolts. Although I free soloed it the rope was available to utilize and so I'm calling it a pseudo free solo. I placed the bolts on a top rope. Walking down towards the Orange Crush Wall trail's start is doable. No carabiners on belay bolts.
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