There Will Be Blood 5.12+
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12+ [details] |
| FA: | JJ Schlick, Wade Forrest |
| Season: | Spring, Summer, Fall |
| Submitted By: | JJ Schlick on Jun 28, 2009 |
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Myself on a run pre FA...
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Description "I'm Finished"
A beloved line that shares the start with False Prophet. Start at head height roof, and then enjoy good moderate climbing with decent gear along a large right facing dihedral. Clip the first bolt on that route at 50' just below the roof, then head left via jugs to a plank rest. Eye the line well, but be prepared for some serious cranking right off the bat through the roofs. From there, enjoy interesting slightly off balance moves through the vertical section. It should be painfully obvious when you have to turn it on again, if you had the luxury of turning it down at all. Large moves lead you past amazing holds, and a variety of feet. Keeps after you until you clip the anchors, though there is plenty of air around.
Location Left side of Amphitheater, Starts at head height roof.
Protection Finger TCUs, small wires, Bolts.
Colin Cox on the 'all or nothing' redpoint crux of...
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Colin Cox dealing with lower technical crux on The...
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Keith on the low crux... Note the hanging draws.....
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Keith dealing with the bouldery top section.
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Mike Sokoloff, finding it during his second accent...
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Mike Sokoloff during the second accent...
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Mike S. moving into the high crux... Brilliant!
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JJ Schlick moving through the low roof crux.
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Josh Janes gunning the jug.
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Josh about to do the big moves out right to the ar...
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JJ at the high crux.
Photo James Q Martin
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Keith Beckley giving it hell on his first go.
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| Comments on There Will Be Blood |
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By Josh Janes
Jun 28, 2009
| Congratulations JJ! I wanted to be the first to say so; it was awesome hearing your victory shouts this afternoon. What a line! |
By Michael Sokoloff
From: Spokane, WA
Jun 28, 2009
rating: 5.12c
| I concur. Great job JJ putting up and sending a route which compares in quality to the best pitches of that grade in Northern AZ (Joker, Mission to Mars). It's my privilege to have made the second ascent of this classic. |
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 28, 2010
| A little more than a year later I still get tingles up my spine when I think of this line.... For me it seemed "endurancy", and that was what took so long. I probably lobbed off the top 12 times from spitting distance of the anchors simply because of excessive pump. Luckily they were always big, clean falls. |
By RyanJames
Aug 31, 2011
rating: 5.12+
| Is this climb as amazing and classic as it looks? |
By Joel Unema
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 25, 2011
rating: 5.12+
| Ryan: I would have to say yes, it is. |
By Eric D
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jan 21, 2012
| This doesn't look like much from the ground but is an excellent pitch. Great finishing sequence. |
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