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The Main Amphitheater
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Logic Bomb T,S 
Lord Humongous T 
Pressure Drop T,S 
Pyrokinesis T 
Rough Around the Edges T 
Speaking In Tongues T 
Sphere of Influence T 
There Will Be Blood T 
Walking Far From Home T 

There Will Be Blood 

YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: JJ Schlick, Wade Forrest
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 3,019
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Jun 28, 2009

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Colin Cox on the 'all or nothing' redpoint crux of...

Description 

There Will Be Blood stands out as another illogically steep route for columnar basalt, with the upper half delivering everything from boulder problem cruxes to jug haul surfing on very exposed terrain.

Start at head height roof, and then enjoy good moderate climbing with decent gear along a large right facing dihedral. Clip a bolt with a long runner at 50' just below the roof, then head left via jugs to a plank rest. It's bolts to the top from there.

Eye the line well, and be prepared for some serious cranking right off the bat through the initial roofs. From there, enjoy interesting slightly off balance moves through the vertical section. It should be painfully obvious when you have to turn it on again, if you had the luxury of turning it down at all. Large moves lead you past amazing holds, and a variety of feet. Keeps after you until you clip the anchors, though there is plenty of air around.


Location 

Left side of Amphitheater, Starts at head height roof.


Protection 

Finger TCUs, small wires, Bolts.



Photos of There Will Be Blood Slideshow Add Photo
JJ at the high crux. <br /> <br />Photo James Q Martin
JJ at the high crux.

Photo James Q Martin
Colin Cox dealing with lower technical crux on There Will Be Blood.
Colin Cox dealing with lower technical crux on The...
JJ Schlick moving through the low roof crux.
JJ Schlick moving through the low roof crux.
Josh Janes gunning the jug.
Josh Janes gunning the jug.
JJ on There Will Be Blood
JJ on There Will Be Blood
Keith on the low crux...  Note the hanging draws...
Keith on the low crux... Note the hanging draws.....
Mike S. moving into the high crux...  Brilliant!
Mike S. moving into the high crux... Brilliant!
Keith dealing with the bouldery top section.
Keith dealing with the bouldery top section.
Mike Sokoloff, finding it during his second accent!  Sports action!
Mike Sokoloff, finding it during his second accent...
Josh about to do the big moves out right to the arete as a warm up?
Josh about to do the big moves out right to the ar...
Mike Sokoloff during the second accent...
Mike Sokoloff during the second accent...
Keith Beckley giving it hell on his first go.
Keith Beckley giving it hell on his first go.
Comments on There Will Be Blood Add Comment
Show which comments
By Josh Janes
Jun 28, 2009
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Congratulations JJ! I wanted to be the first to say so; it was awesome hearing your victory shouts this afternoon. What a line!

By Michael Sokoloff
From: Spokane, WA
Jun 28, 2009
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

I concur. Great job JJ putting up and sending a route which compares in quality to the best pitches of that grade in Northern AZ (Joker, Mission to Mars). It's my privilege to have made the second ascent of this classic.

By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 28, 2010

A little more than a year later I still get tingles up my spine when I think of this line.... For me it seemed more endurance than anything, and that was what took so long. I probably lobbed off the top 12 times from spitting distance of the anchors simply because of the pump. Luckily for my creaky knees, they were always big, clean falls.

By RyanJames
Aug 31, 2011
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

Is this climb as amazing and classic as it looks?

By Joel Unema
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 25, 2011
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

Ryan: I would have to say yes, it is.

By Eric D
From: Gnarnia
Jan 21, 2012

This doesn't look like much from the ground but is an excellent pitch. Great finishing sequence.