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Addiction 
Therapy 

Therapy 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 114
Submitted By: Alex Garhart on Sep 27, 2009
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BETA PHOTO: The route.
Climbing is prohibited until further notice.

Description 

Climb mellow class 5 off the ground in good rock to a steeper section with twin hand jams and good stemming. Hand jam up to a spacious ledge at ~50 feet. Climb a discontinuous crack system up the looming, steep headwall for ~70 feet (5.9+). The climbing is heady for the grade due to the thin nature of gear placements and committing moves on the headwall. There are thin flakes and detached blocks on this route that the leader should be mindful of when placing gear.


Location 

Far east end of Smith Wall ~100 feet from the end of the buttress.


Protection 

Camalots-doubles from tips through hands, small-medium stoppers, many long slings. The headwall takes small wired nuts and TCUs if you want to sew it up. Rap 60 feet from slings around a tree on the backside of the formation or scramble off to the northwest.



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