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Ragged Edges Area
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Theme Book 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Joe Herbst 1973
Page Views: 431
Submitted By: Aaron S on Dec 14, 2006
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Working up Theme Book.


An easy low-angle face leads to a short but physical offwidth through a section of black varnish. The climb then opens up into a large chimney with easy climbing over poor rock; not much pro for this part. This climb would get more stars if it was all like the bottom section, without the chossy chimney up high. However, this is still a good route if you want to work on some 5.9 offwidth technique.


The obvious crack in the large left-facing corner to the left of Ragged Edges. To descend, either rap off a slung tree to the left, or head right to the Ragged Edges walk off.


Single rack of cams to a #6 Camalot.

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By L. Hamilton
Jul 20, 2007

Just to fill out the record ... Leslie Hamilton and I followed Joe on the FA of this route in 1973. On page 131 of Red Rock Odyssey is a photo I took of Joe leading the crux with piton hammer and EBs. The Theme Book turned out to be our warmup for the FA of Rainbow Wall, which Joe and I climbed over the next three days.

By Weston L
From: Summerlin, NV
Apr 17, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

A fun route, not sure if it felt harder because I was rope soloing it today or not, but the crux felt way more difficult than anything on Nadia's Nine or Frigid Air buttress (using other Herbst routes for reference) - and I enjoy wide! This thing does deserve more traffic, given that it is a fun wide crack close to the road. Old skool and about as adventurous as a single pitch can get.