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YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
Page Views: 1,042
Submitted By: sqwirll on Jun 8, 2009  with updates from Cat Cahoon

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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Them (5.9) underclings out the large flake, and th...


This short route is really good. It starts out with a thin corner, followed by a cool traverse, and ending with a short wide section.


Walk off or rap from the tree.


Gear to 4". chain anchors.

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Josh leading
Josh leading

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By jpbrastad
From: Seattle, WA
Jul 1, 2009

New (and welcome) rap chains were in place on 6/30/2009.
By Jon Nelson
Oct 9, 2011

It looks steep and strenuous, but there are good footholds.
By Ethan Henderson
From: Silverdale, WA
Oct 4, 2012

This was a really nice climb. I would recommend it for sure, I found the flake to be easier than I expected, but the start harder.

Cams - 4"
By rohanbk
Jun 9, 2014

As many people have mentioned, there are excellent feet at the undercling/traverse section, and I will echo that point. One thing I struggled with is the pro once you pull the undercling roof section: all my #3s were tipped out and my #4s were horribly overcammed and likely to get stuck. I think it's worth mentioning that a 3.5 cam would protect the upper flake section much more adequately.

Furthermore, extend your pieces on the traverse with draws. A piece of mine walked and it was a b**ch to retrieve. No #5s are needed for this route.
By James Sledd
From: Bozeman, Montana
Jun 22, 2014

Fun route. Getting established in the undercling was the crux for me; after you pull around to the flake the climb was a cruise. I thought the pro was great, if you slung it well. The undercling takes a bomber hand-sized cam, and a #3 fit great deep in the flake (definitely get it way back there--wouldn't want to fall on a large cam placed near the thin edge of the flake). Save a #4 for the fist crack up top.
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