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This is not too bad. The bolts may be out on the face, but most of the route is climbed on the far side of the arete. Basically follow the chalk up. There are lots of good resting points and confidence building holds.
Eds. note, the anchor is in a detached block.
3 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.
Leanne Hanson enjoying the start of Thelma
Laura on Thelma, 08/22/2011.
|By Chris Zeller|
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 28, 2002
I agree, the 5.7 follows the arrette or to the left of the arrette. Follow the chalk. Climbing the face/arrette where the bolts go is harder but doable 5.8-9.
|By Lee Smith|
Dec 26, 2005
The two bolt anchor at the top of this route is attached firmly to a block which is NOT firmly attached to the main cliff. When viewed from the side you can see air between the block and the face. Earlier this year there was some serious rockfall in the gully right next to this arete, and I have a feeling this whole thing may come down soon. Be careful!
|By Matt Gates|
From: Pinewood Springs, CO
Nov 25, 2007
The anchor block may be perched securely but there is a fracture line in the block itself. Its only a matter of time before it splits in two. This route and its neighbor should be "retired". Till then, avoid these like the plague.
|By David Brown|
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 27, 2008
Going straight up the line of bolts goes at about 5.9.
The hangers on this route are welded cold shuts, I don't know why anyone would trust their life to such crap. If I were going to lead this route, I would replace them with real hangers.
As for the block on the top, it's definitely coming down; the question is when. It will probably take a few hundred freeze/thaw cycles (or a minor earthquake) before it falls. Will it be tomorrow, or in 500 years?
|By Ralph Kolva|
From: Evergreen, CO
Oct 24, 2008
Did these two climbs on 10/24/2008 and somebody has placed 3 bolts about 10 back from the edge. I would recommend using these to set a top rope anchor and being careful around the top 15 feet of these climbs. Geology happens and eventually the top of the this climb is coming down.
|By Free Willie|
Apr 6, 2013
There is one head-sized, wedged rock holding this whole thing together. Know this before you climb it.