The Zoo Rock Climbing

An area outside the main park. Hosts a good assortment of steep, overhanging sport climbs, as well as shorter easier climbs. A widely-known secret for a long time, the area has cleaned up considerably with regular traffic, and has become a somewhat popular destination. The primary season is April to September, while the gate off of NF-5710 (Skull Hollow access road) is open. The campground at the top is very popular, fills up quickly, and sees a lot of thru-traffic (bikers, runners, 4-wheelers, campers, climbers, etc).

Unlike the vast majority of Smith, the Zoo routes typically feature overhanging, bouldery sequences split by good rests. Even in the lower grades, you can expect steeper stone with more gymnastic moves than typical in the main park.

For climbers seeking easier, well protected routes, there’s several sub-areas where you can literally send a route, move ten feet to either side, and do another of similar grade for a few routes in a row. I’d venture to posit the Zoo the best easy area at Smith. It’s without doubt the best easy and not scary Smith climbing. 

Additionally, the Zoo features a good selection of steep .12 routes—pretty much the only cave-esque terrain available for those not climbing .13 or above. The argument could be made that the Zoo features largest collection of steep routes at Smith bar none.

A few caveats: The undulating nature of the area with slabs followed by bulges means that some bolts are necessarily placed in locations that will cause rope drag higher up the line. Carrying 3 double length draws or normal length slings to clip bolts in slabs followed by bulges to eliminate this problem. After you get caught once by the boat anchor you'll learn how to spot these slab/bulge traps. Additionally, this area is relatively new: the rock quality is generally decent enough (in aggregate it is about average Smith quality), but the routes have seen comparatively few ascents—expect to at least crumble a foothold or two if not outright snap a rare hold. Consider said breakage your contribution to route improvement, a sort of community service.