BETA PHOTO: The Zoo from the east. 2 Lightning Bolt 5.11b/c 3 [...
Description
East-facing, steep limestone wall with five bolted sport routes. There is a mine entrance at the left (south) base of the wall. There is a fire ring sheltered by a short, overhanging wall 40 feet east.
Getting There
Proceed up the canyon to the first stream crossing (small wooden bridge). Don't cross the stream but continue on the right (south) side of the stream for about 100 feet (35 steps for me). Turn right up a gully and follow the path. On the right (west) after approximately 200 feet you will find a small notch that leads to The Zoo.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Zoo:
This isn't the best route on the wall, but it's worth doing. It's harder than it looks. Use some fun pockets to get off the ground. The lower-angled middle section is deceptively difficult. The steep final section has pretty good holds, but you need to hunt around for them near the chains....[more]Browse More Classics in UT
Half the chains on The Zoo (5.10a) are missing. There are 3 rusty links on one, and the other is just a naked bolt. We didn't look closely at the others. I did notice that there are 2 more bolted routes to the left of the cave/mine entrance (Opposite Lightening Bolt), FYI.
By Perin Blanchard Administrator From: Orem, UT Oct 24, 2006
The missing chain on The Zoo's anchors has been replaced.
I wonder if anyone ever sent the project just left (basically under) Excessive Bail. Start to the left and work up tiny crimps angel leftwards to the crack that heads up to join EB. Tristan and I were doing it on TR (years ago) trying to get it wired before we pulled out the pads to go for it. We didn't think it was a good idea to bolt it. We ended up getting distracted by other fun projects before the real send (I know we both got it on TR at least once).