East-facing, steep limestone wall with five bolted sport routes. There is a mine entrance at the left (south) base of the wall. There is a fire ring sheltered by a short, overhanging wall 40 feet east.
Proceed up the canyon to the first stream crossing (small wooden bridge). Don't cross the stream but continue on the right (south) side of the stream for about 100 feet (35 steps for me). Turn right up a gully and follow the path. On the right (west) after approximately 200 feet you will find a small notch that leads to The Zoo.
Vertical climbing on solid limestone. A thin start in small, sharp two- and three-finger pockets and small footholds to the first bolt. Mostly slopers and sidepulls after that, but there is a jug or two. A few holds look like they might come off in your hand, but they proved bomber.The route is essentially vertical to the third bolt, then slopes back a bit, and finally is slightly overhanging from the fourth bolt to the chains. (Slightly overhanging meaning: you donít really notice it as you cli...[more]Browse More Classics in UT
Half the chains on The Zoo (5.10a) are missing. There are 3 rusty links on one, and the other is just a naked bolt. We didn't look closely at the others. I did notice that there are 2 more bolted routes to the left of the cave/mine entrance (Opposite Lightening Bolt), FYI.
I wonder if anyone ever sent the project just left (basically under) Excessive Bail. Start to the left and work up tiny crimps angel leftwards to the crack that heads up to join EB. Tristan and I were doing it on TR (years ago) trying to get it wired before we pulled out the pads to go for it. We didn't think it was a good idea to bolt it. We ended up getting distracted by other fun projects before the real send (I know we both got it on TR at least once).