|Medlicott Dome East End
Find the HUGE chimney/corner. The second pitch holds the crux offwidth/weirdness. 3rd pitch (5.7) hands! If you have huge hands!
You can't miss it. Huge corner on the far east side of the face.
Bring a bunch of big cams.
|By Tyler Logan|
From: Bishop, CA
Aug 5, 2008
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b
Anyone who sees this route up close will be impressed by it, even if they have no desire to climb it. Amazing line. Route-finding on the first pitch is tricky (no, you don't just find the corner and climb it). The standard start begins right of the corner and climbs up broken, somewhat-vegetated cracks and ledge systems to the quality crux headwall (which is still right of the true corner). Route-finding on the 2nd pitch is a no-brainer. Follow the steep, intimidating wide crack as it goes from surprisingly positive jams to awkward, leaning nothingness. The Reid guide describes the final pitch as a "crack in a corner that climbers dream about." I'd say the 2nd pitch is also the kind of pitch climbers dream about, but I'd call these dreams nightmares.
I'd say the 2nd pitch ranks with Reeds Direct in the Valley as a top contender for hardest 5.9 of all time.
Gear is excellent. Bring a lot of 3" for the final pitch, and consider taking a couple large cams for the offwidth.
|By George Bell|
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 5, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
Good training for climbing the Salathe Wall on El Cap.
|By Rob Dillon|
Aug 19, 2008
A bunch of big nuts would really keep your rack light and bomber on this routes' knobby, convergent flakes. Hardly any small ones, though.
|By Bryan G|
From: San Jose
Oct 3, 2011
I got off route on the first pitch. Climbed into the main corner too soon and found myself beneath an 8-foot long offwidth roof.
The 3rd pitch is a spectacular rope-stretcher and can be protected entirely with passive pro if you're inclined to dust off the hexes. Seriously though, this pitch is as good as anything I've climbed in Tuolumne (ranking up there with Blue's Riff, Speed of Life, the corner pitch on Oz, and the final pitch of 3rd Pillar).
|By trying hard|
From: Sierra East Side
Nov 6, 2012
This climb is awesome. The most valley like climbing I have done in the meadows. Pitch 1 is a bit tricky route finding though a fun roof and into a wide section. The 2nd pitch is burly awesome, and the 3rd is just straight up mean 5.7. This is one of the most beautiful rock formations to look up at from the base. When you get up close you cant help but get exited about this climb.
This is a majorly overlooked climb in the meadows and if you are looking to climb hard valley pitches, this is great starter and training climb.
From: San Francisco
Jun 10, 2013
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
Definitely found this route to be burly! P2 has the classic off-width/V-slot dilemma: -Should I go as far in as possible for the security of some (bad) jams and ease of gear placement OR do I leave the security of the slot and squeeze-chimney my way up?
If you choose the former you don't need anything bigger than a #4,... but it'll feel way harder than 5.9.
As for P3,... if you go into it thinking it's just a 5.7 you will get slaughtered. Nothing more to say there.
|By Neil Rankin|
From: Greensboro, NC
Jan 10, 2014
From a distance, one of the prettiest lines in Tuolumne. The second pitch is weird, and my rack was a little too small when I did it, but it's not too bad. The third pitch is harder than 5.7, and it requires the leader to run it between protection. No worries though, there are features for stemming and good jams in between the wider spots. A fantastic route.