|Ed and Terry Wall
Heard this actually has a more original name. But here it is. Once you have done all the other mod's on this cliff, make sure you tick this one too. Actually pretty good climbing. One of those "...if it were only longer routes." Can chicken out right at the intersection but finish on the Real McCoy for a few more fun moments.
The farthest right route on the wall. The obvious "Y" crack. Start by climbing the small corner that leads right up to the crack. Rap from the Real McCoy anchors.
Bring some med.-sized gear for the actual crack.
From: Austin, TX
May 25, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
I felt like this route was a lot more comfortable with a medium sized nut to shove into the crack as you start to climb up the flake at the end. Without that there is a sketchy run out where a fall would be less than ideal. The climbing is not very hard though, so if you are confident, you would be fine without it but I was a bit surprised by it.