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Club Mex Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
battle royale 1st pitch S 
Blazing Saddles S 
Club Mex S 
Conflict S 
Fear of Flying S 
Grusada Negra S 
Salty Dog S 
Super Nova S 
Sword, The S 
telegram for mongo S 
Worm, The S 
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The Worm 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Kurt Smith & Ned Harris - 1997
Page Views: 417
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Jan 25, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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This is a classic, technical tufa climb that is well worth the effort of getting up off the ground, even if you're just cragging at the Club Mex Wall.

P0: First, climb Fear Of Flying or Salty Dog and belay on the left end of the big ledge above these climbs.

P1: This is the money pitch. From the left end of the ledge climb up past two bolts to a scary, insecure stand-up move on top of a tufa to the third clip. Blowing the third clip will test even the most attentive belayer. From here on, things are safe. Climb up and gradually right through awesome tufas and crimps. Many decent rests and technical moves, with a definite crux in the homestretch. Belay at two bolts below a rooflet. Lowering back to the ledge requires a 70m rope!!! 5.12c, 120'.

P2: There is another pitch that climbs above the roof and ends in the middle of nowhere. It actually is possible to join up with the 5th pitch of Thunderkiss, but rapping back down again is very difficult unless you have two ropes. I've heard rumors that rockfall has made this pitch harder than it's original 5.12b rating, and it didn't look very engaging, but who knows???


14 bolts plus the anchor. 70m cord.

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