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Unsorted Routes:

The World According to Guppy 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 800'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: T. Roy, B. Collett, May 2012
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 914
Submitted By: Ben Collett on May 5, 2012

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Picture of pitches 3-5 of The World According to G...
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Description 

This is a fun, steep romp up good rock with almost no pegmatite, fun face climbing low down and an excellent, airy handcrack on the last pitch.

P1) From the start ledge, step right, climb some blocky terrain and angle back left to the corner on the right side of the roof. Face climb left below the roof, climb up past the left side of it and angle up and left, belaying after 180 feet below two dihedrals. 5.9.

P2) Take the smaller, left dihedral until it ends, step left and climb into a larger dihedral. Exit this to the right and follow a shallow, facey dihedral with little gear until just below a steeper section, then face climb right to a belay below a nice looking corner with a thin crack. 5.9, 140 feet.

P3) Climb up into the corner system and follow it to a good ledge at around 50 feet. From the ledge, climb through an awkward, offwidthy move to a large right angling ramp and follow it easily to a belay after 180 feet.

P4) Continue up the ramp for 20 feet or so and then head straight up past some blocks, angling slightly left to a belay on a ledge below the right side of a big roof. 5.9, 100 feet.

P5) Continue slightly left, and then traverse right to a shallow, left-facing corner. Step left at the level of the roof and climb a great hand to offwidth crack in the hanging, right-facing corner to the top of the buttress. 5.10-, 100 feet.


Location 

Descend the Guppy Gully, pass the Yellow Submarine by 100 feet. When level with the bottom of the pegmatite gully that leads to The Life Aquatic, look left and locate a large roof about 80 feet above the Guppy Gully. Scramble 30 feet up to a ledge below the roof. Start here.


Protection 

Nuts, TCUs through #5 C4 with doubles from yellow TCU through #2 Camalot.



Photos of The World According to Guppy Slideshow Add Photo
Looking down on the start of the 3rd pitch from the nice rest ledge a little ways up.
Looking down on the start of the 3rd pitch from th...
Ben Collett following pitch 1.
Ben Collett following pitch 1.
An overview of the route from below.
BETA PHOTO: An overview of the route from below.
Start of the 2nd pitch.  Note the how we swung around the short arete into a large corner.  Follow corner for another 25 feet, then cut right onto a flaky face to the top of a small pillar below a nice finger crack.
Start of the 2nd pitch. Note the how we swung aro...
Ben Collett at the start of The World According to Guppy.
Ben Collett at the start of The World According to...
Taylor Roy on the amazing 3rd pitch.  Climb nice fingers and face holds to the top of a pillar.  Tackle an 8 foot 5.9 wide section with fingers deep in the crack, and scramble up a 5.6 slab until the wall steepens.
Taylor Roy on the amazing 3rd pitch. Climb nice f...
The World According to Guppy Topo.  Art by Ben Collett.
The World According to Guppy Topo. Art by Ben Col...
Following the 4th pitch.  Follow large, mostly solid blocks up and left to a nice pedestal below the obvious large roof with a hand crack in a corner on the right end.
Following the 4th pitch. Follow large, mostly sol...
Looking up at the killer 3rd pitch. <br /> <br />Photo by Erik Wellborn.
Looking up at the killer 3rd pitch.

Photo by Erik...
Ben Collett topping out the last pitch.
Ben Collett topping out the last pitch.
Erik Wellborn on the last pitch which was quite exciting after not having climbed in about 6 months, hahahahahaha.
Erik Wellborn on the last pitch which was quite ex...
Comments on The World According to Guppy Add Comment
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By eDixon
From: Durango, Colorado
May 19, 2012

The topo/description above seem pretty accurate, exception being the 3 star rating?

P1 is fun - a short section of fingers and a cool face-traverse under a roof. P2 says to step left, then back right, etc. We just climbed straight up the crack/groove (~5.8) aiming for the short 5.10 fingers section shown as the start of P3. This section is short and over almost as soon as you get into it (~5.9). P4 has some big stacked blocks that might(?) be solid. On P5, the traverse under the roof to gain the hand/ow crack has some real junky rock (did some cleaning).

We brought: (2) green Alien - #2 Camalot, (1) blue Alien, #3 - #5 Camalot (C4s), Stoppers. Only found one place to put the #5 ("offwidthy move" on P3), you get gear right before and after this move - an optional piece.

By Ben Collett
May 19, 2012

On pitch 2, stepping right is the obvious way to go, but going left provides one of the better pitches on the route.