The World According to Guppy  5.10

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Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 800 feet Consensus:  5.10 [details] FA:  T. Roy, B. Collett, May 2012 New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Ben Collett on May 5, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Ben Collett at the start of The World According to...

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2013 Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>> Serpent Point and the adjacent walls within one-half mile are closed to public use from March 15 through July 15. This includes the landscape portions above the walls extending 50 feet from the rim edge. This pertains to the following areas: North Rim areas - The Alpine Aretes, Porcelain Arete, and Painted Wall. These climbing routes are closed: Alpine Route, Porcelain Arete, On the Border, Broken Porcelain, Northern Arete, Beyer Route, The Dragon, The Serpent, Forrest-Walker, Stratosfear, Journey Through Mirkwood, and Southern Arete. South Rim areas - Dragon Point and Dragon Point Buttress. These climbing routes are closed: Pilgrimage, Crumb Blunder, Magic Dragon, Black Adder, Black Snake, Black Heathen, Black Dragon Rider, and Silent Rage. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This is a fun, steep romp up good rock with almost no pegmatite, fun face climbing low down and an excellent, airy handcrack on the last pitch.

P1) From the start ledge, step right, climb some blocky terrain and angle back left to the corner on the right side of the roof. Face climb left below the roof, climb up past the left side of it and angle up and left, belaying after 180 feet below two dihedrals. 5.9.

P2) Take the smaller, left dihedral until it ends, step left and climb into a larger dihedral. Exit this to the right and follow a shallow, facey dihedral with little gear until just below a steeper section, then face climb right to a belay below a nice looking corner with a thin crack. 5.9, 140 feet.

P3) Climb up into the corner system and follow it to a good ledge at around 50 feet. From the ledge, climb through an awkward, offwidthy move to a large right angling ramp and follow it easily to a belay after 180 feet.

P4) Continue up the ramp for 20 feet or so and then head straight up past some blocks, angling slightly left to a belay on a ledge below the right side of a big roof. 5.9, 100 feet.

P5) Continue slightly left, and then traverse right to a shallow, left-facing corner. Step left at the level of the roof and climb a great hand to offwidth crack in the hanging, right-facing corner to the top of the buttress. 5.10-, 100 feet.

Location 

Descend the Guppy Gully, pass the Yellow Submarine by 100 feet. When level with the bottom of the pegmatite gully that leads to The Life Aquatic, look left and locate a large roof about 80 feet above the Guppy Gully. Scramble 30 feet up to a ledge below the roof. Start here.

Protection 

Nuts, TCUs through #5 C4 with doubles from yellow TCU through #2 Camalot.

Photos of The World According to Guppy Slideshow

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Ben Collett following pitch 1.	Start of the 2nd pitch. Note the how we swung aro...	Taylor Roy on the amazing 3rd pitch. Climb nice f...
Following the 4th pitch. Follow large, mostly sol...	Ben Collett topping out the last pitch.	Picture of pitches 3-5 of The World According to G...
The World According to Guppy Topo. Art by Ben Col...	BETA PHOTO: An overview of the route from below.	Looking up at the killer 3rd pitch. Photo by Erik...
Looking down on the start of the 3rd pitch from th...	Erik Wellborn on the last pitch which was quite ex...