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This is another much neglected climb, but due to its visibility from the parking lot at Split Rocks, and it's relatively accessible difficulty, it should see lots more action. The crack is very exciting and varied. The first bolt is solid, and the first few nut placements are excellent as well and easy to place. Technical crux is just at the start of the thin crack, but there is a possibility of failure near the top of the block due to the pump from jamming the flaring crack at the top. When I climbed this route, there was no anchor at the top, just a single bolt stud sticking out of the rock with no hanger.
Mostly nuts, a #4 metolius was useful up high, down low, one bolt to clip before you reach first nut placement
BETA PHOTO: "The Woodshed".
Photo by Blitzo.
Mar 23, 2003
This route is pretty technical at the bottom, but 2 of 3 stars (3 of 5). The rock is less than stellar.
|By Vernon Stiefel|
Mar 23, 2003
This climb was very challenging for me on lead. I used small HB and BD stoppers and a #0 TCU to protect moves past the bolt to the flared crack. Medium sized cams were easy to place in the flared and grainy crack but were less than inspiring as protection. There was a 1/2" bolt with a new hanger at the top.
Two out of three stars.
Old School 5.11d.
|By C Miller|
Nov 6, 2003
This route has also been called "The Cross".
Dec 27, 2008
Modern thin cams make the start easier to protect, but some thin wire wrangling is still required. A friend of mine took a different approach: run it out above the bolt to the next obvious solid gear placement. We were all gritting our teeth as we watched him take numerous ground-sweeping falls until he punched on through. The upper crack is gritty and flared but still easier than the bottom section. Protection is present but fair-to-middlin' through that section.
From: Oakland CA
Feb 1, 2012
This thing hurt my fingers, hurt my skin and hurt my feelings!! Guess I got taken to the Woodshed.
Dec 21, 2012
Scratch my last comment; the flared crack is definitely stout and the protection isn't that great. Getting taken to the woodshed is almost mandatory on this one.