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Summit Wall
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Wonderette, The 
Wonderwall 

The Wonderette 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b

   
Type: Trad, 4 pitches, 520', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Ari Menitove, Louis Arevalo, Rob Duncan, Brad Barlage
New Route: Yes
Season: Summer
Page Views: 666
Submitted By: Ari Menitove on Sep 11, 2012
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Committing to the 5.11 crux on Pitch 2. Photo by ...

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Description 

The Wonderette is an easier free variation of the Wonderwall (5.9 A3 or 5.13c R). Expect exposed face and crack climbing on and near aretes the whole way. Bolts have been added to the face climbing sections on the upper pitches to make them safer. Sustained at the 5.10+ range with a few harder sections. The single 5.12 move can be avoided with a tension traverse/pendulum. It is also probably possible to climb into the last two pitches by traversing directly into them from the Undone Book. This would avoid both the 5.12 crux and a committing, techy 5.11+ corner.


Location 

Start on the Undone Book, at a black diorite band on the right side of the North Sumit Wall (see topo). Climb the Wonderwall to the 5.13c R (or A3) pitch, and then cut left and follow the more moderate system of aretes to the top.


Protection 

1 set stoppers, doubles on cams from purple metolius TCU to gold camalot, with triples of blue and yellow TCU's. 1 blue camalot. 1 tiny cam. 5 QD's and many (10) long slings.



Photos of The Wonderette Slideshow Add Photo
Wonderette Topo.  Note that the gear in the parentheses is a suggestion for what to save for the belays.
BETA PHOTO: Wonderette Topo. Note that the gear in the parent...
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By Ari Menitove
Sep 11, 2012

Psyched on this route and even more so for others to try it out.

I'm thinking of adding a bolt after the 5.12 crux (5.9 R-ish) and right below the summit (5.7R), and would welcome feedback about whether this would improve the experience.

Thanks,

Ari Menitove

By grk10vq
Administrator
Sep 11, 2012

i heard all the good lines were taken? (har har)

By Devin Fin
From: DURANGO
Jul 1, 2013

2nd go an still im not worthy .... the crux is hard!!! as for the R 5.7 up top let them "pucker" sick line ... DF