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 ADVANCED
Summit Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Future Shock T 
King Thistle T 
Open Book, The T 
Triple Overhangs T 
Undone Book, The T 
Vertical Smile T 
Wonderette, The T 
Wonderwall T 

The Wonderette 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 520', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Ari Menitove, Louis Arevalo, Rob Duncan, Brad Barlage
New Route: Yes
Season: Summer
Page Views: 808
Submitted By: Ari Menitove on Sep 11, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: Wonderette Topo. Note that the gear in the parent...

Description 

The Wonderette is an easier free variation of the Wonderwall (5.9 A3 or 5.13c R). Expect exposed face and crack climbing on and near aretes the whole way. Bolts have been added to the face climbing sections on the upper pitches to make them safer. Sustained at the 5.10+ range with a few harder sections. The single 5.12 move can be avoided with a tension traverse/pendulum. It is also probably possible to climb into the last two pitches by traversing directly into them from the Undone Book. This would avoid both the 5.12 crux and a committing, techy 5.11+ corner.

Location 

Start on the Undone Book, at a black diorite band on the right side of the North Sumit Wall (see topo). Climb the Wonderwall to the 5.13c R (or A3) pitch, and then cut left and follow the more moderate system of aretes to the top.

Protection 

1 set stoppers, doubles on cams from purple metolius TCU to gold camalot, with triples of blue and yellow TCU's. 1 blue camalot. 1 tiny cam. 5 QD's and many (10) long slings.


Photos of The Wonderette Slideshow Add Photo
Committing to the 5.11 crux on Pitch 2.  Photo by Louis Arevalo.
Committing to the 5.11 crux on Pitch 2. Photo by ...

Comments on The Wonderette Add Comment
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By Ari Menitove
Sep 11, 2012

Psyched on this route and even more so for others to try it out.

I'm thinking of adding a bolt after the 5.12 crux (5.9 R-ish) and right below the summit (5.7R), and would welcome feedback about whether this would improve the experience.

Thanks,

Ari Menitove
By grk10vq
Administrator
Sep 11, 2012

i heard all the good lines were taken? (har har)
By Devin Fin
From: DURANGO
Jul 1, 2013

2nd go an still im not worthy .... the crux is hard!!! as for the R 5.7 up top let them "pucker" sick line ... DF