|Type: ||Trad, 4 pitches, 520', Grade III|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b [details]|
|FA: ||Ari Menitove, Louis Arevalo, Rob Duncan, Brad Barlage|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||666|
|Submitted By: ||Ari Menitove on Sep 11, 2012|
|Good Page?||1 person likes this page. Your opinion: |
Committing to the 5.11 crux on Pitch 2. Photo by ...
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The Wonderette is an easier free variation of the Wonderwall (5.9 A3 or 5.13c R). Expect exposed face and crack climbing on and near aretes the whole way. Bolts have been added to the face climbing sections on the upper pitches to make them safer. Sustained at the 5.10+ range with a few harder sections. The single 5.12 move can be avoided with a tension traverse/pendulum. It is also probably possible to climb into the last two pitches by traversing directly into them from the Undone Book. This would avoid both the 5.12 crux and a committing, techy 5.11+ corner.
Start on the Undone Book, at a black diorite band on the right side of the North Sumit Wall (see topo). Climb the Wonderwall to the 5.13c R (or A3) pitch, and then cut left and follow the more moderate system of aretes to the top.
1 set stoppers, doubles on cams from purple metolius TCU to gold camalot, with triples of blue and yellow TCU's. 1 blue camalot. 1 tiny cam. 5 QD's and many (10) long slings.
BETA PHOTO: Wonderette Topo. Note that the gear in the parent...
|By Ari Menitove|
Sep 11, 2012
Psyched on this route and even more so for others to try it out.
I'm thinking of adding a bolt after the 5.12 crux (5.9 R-ish) and right below the summit (5.7R), and would welcome feedback about whether this would improve the experience.
Sep 11, 2012
i heard all the good lines were taken? (har har)
|By Devin Fin|
Jul 1, 2013
2nd go an still im not worthy .... the crux is hard!!! as for the R 5.7 up top let them "pucker" sick line ... DF