Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
The Wizard

Select Route:
Cardiac Arete (AKA Talisman) T 
Yellow Brick Road T 

The Wizard Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Page Views: 6,240
Administrators: Matthew Fienup, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Jun 18, 2006


28° | 18°
Thanksgiving Day

26° | 19°

31° | 17°

29° | 17°

34° | 21°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Know the location? Show us! We need it for cool new features!


The Wizard is another small formation that sits at the foot of the Sorcerer -- actually between the Sorcerer and the Sorcerer's Apprentice. It has a host of obscure climbs on its west face and southern flank, as well as its upper shoulder. The most famous route on it is perhaps Yellow Brick Road (5.9) on the west side. I seem to recall a story about a climber who got his knee irreversibly stuck in a wide crack high on this route. His partner had to rappel back to the ground, run up to the ridge, and head all the way up to the lookout tower for help. Apparently he was able to procure the assistance of a couple other climbers and a large bottle of vegetable oil which provided the needed lubricant to get his partner out of the "jam."

Getting There 

Depending on the location of your climb, you can approach from between the Magician and Sorcerer, or by following directions listed on the Sorcerer's Apprentice page.

Climbing Season

For the The Needles area.

Weather station 10.8 miles from here

2 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in The Wizard

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Wizard:
Yellow Brick Road   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   
Cardiac Arete (AKA Talisman)   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13     Trad, 2 pitches   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Wizard

Featured Route For The Wizard
Rock Climbing Photo: First pitch of Yellow Brick Rd.  The climber in ye...

Yellow Brick Road 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a  CA : Southern Sierra : ... : The Wizard
Face traverse (somewhat exciting) into a handcrack splitting the obvious streak of yellow lichen. You will come across the remains of a salad oil bottle as the handcrack widens into an offwidth (lieback this, lest you need a similar bottle), terminating onto a huge ledge. (Rap anchors for a Brian Jonas sport route are at the left end of this ledge if you need them for some reason -- you do not want to be on top of the Wizard in a storm, for example.) The next pitch is the business -- thin dih...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of The Wizard Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Upper East Face Wizard Needle - routes The Force a...
Upper East Face Wizard Needle - routes The Force a...

Comments on The Wizard Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!