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The Wizard

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Southeast Arete T,S 
Yellow Brick Road T 

The Wizard  


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Administrators: Matthew Fienup, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Jun 18, 2006
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Description 

The Wizard is another small formation that sits at the foot of the Sorcerer -- actually between the Sorcerer and the Sorcerer's Apprentice. It has a host of obscure climbs on its west face and southern flank, as well as its upper shoulder. The most famous route on it is perhaps Yellow Brick Road (5.9) on the west side. I seem to recall a story about a climber who got his knee irreversibly stuck in a wide crack high on this route. His partner had to rappel back to the ground, run up to the ridge, and head all the way up to the lookout tower for help. Apparently he was able to procure the assistance of a couple other climbers and a large bottle of vegetable oil which provided the needed lubricant to get his partner out of the "jam."

Getting There 

Depending on the location of your climb, you can approach from between the Magician and Sorcerer, or by following directions listed on the Sorcerer's Apprentice page.

Climbing Season



Weather station 10.8 miles from here

2 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',0],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Wizard:
Yellow Brick Road   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   
Southeast Arete   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches   
Browse More Classics in The Wizard

Featured Route For The Wizard
First pitch of Yellow Brick Rd.  The climber in yellow has just finished the initial traverse.  The route starts in the bush behind the climber.

Yellow Brick Road 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a  CA : Southern Sierra : ... : The Wizard
Face traverse (somewhat exciting) into a handcrack splitting the obvious streak of yellow lichen. You will come across the remains of a salad oil bottle as the handcrack widens into an offwidth (lieback this, lest you need a similar bottle), terminating onto a huge ledge. (Rap anchors for a Brian Jonas sport route are at the left end of this ledge if you need them for some reason -- you do not want to be on top of the Wizard in a storm, for example.) The next pitch is the business -- thin dih...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of The Wizard Slideshow Add Photo
Upper East Face Wizard Needle - routes The Force and Magnum Force are located here...somewhere.
Upper East Face Wizard Needle - routes The Force a...

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