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The Wind Tower

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Wind Tower - S Face 
Wind Tower - SW Face 

The Wind Tower  


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Elevation: 5,500'
Location: 39.9316, -105.283 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 589,526
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Mar 20, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: The Southwest face of the Wind Tower, showing the ...

Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This popular rock can be divided in character into its south and southwest face. The SW face has some of the most frequently climbed routes in Eldorado Canyon and is probably the best area in Eldorado Canyon for those seeking lower end difficulty climbing. The rock is stellar for the first two pitches of climbs on this face. Above this the rock has seen less traffic and still has loose rock for the unsuspecting climber. On its S face, you will find fewer companions since its vertical face and spartan protection options will deter all but the most ardent suitors.

Once, the summit provided an anchor point for the cable upon which crossed Ivy Baldwin on many death-defying crossings of the canyon. The cable was taken down in 1974. Today, the cable remains testament to a disappearing breed of adventurer.

These are some of the earliest stomping grounds for Colorado legends like Layton Kor, Dick Bird, Dallas Jackson, Cleve McCarty, Larry Dalke, Pat Ament, Jeff Lowe, Jim Erickson, Steve Wunsch, Kevin Donald, Charlie Fowler, Duncan Ferguson, Kyle Copeland, Dan Hare, Mike Brooks, Richard Rossiter, and others.

Ultra-classics include: Calypso, 5.6; Wind Ridge, 5.6; the slippery Tagger, 5.10c; Metamorphosis, 5.9+ s; King's X, 5.11a s; and Rainbow Wall, 5.13a.

The low part of this wall does include some moderately popular bouldering and traversing.

Note, if anyone has particularly good base digital photos for rendering a topo for this page, please let me know

construction zone

Getting There 

Once you enter Eldorado Canyon State Park, you will hopefully find parking within 200 yards in one of two areas. Park. Walk uphill to the obvious bridge across South Boulder Creek. Cross the bridge. Look up & right. Follow the trail to the SW face or veer right to the S face.

Climbing Season



Weather station 0.1 miles from here

51 Total Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',29],['1 Star',11],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',8],['5.7',3],['5.8',10],['5.9',11],['5.10',13],['5.11',1],['5.12',4],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Wind Tower:
Breezy   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 2 pitches   Wind Tower - SW Face
Tigger   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 3 pitches   Wind Tower - SW Face
Calypso   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 3 pitches   Wind Tower - SW Face
West Overhang   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches   Wind Tower - SW Face
Tigger Plus   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch   Wind Tower - SW Face
Calypso Direct   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Wind Tower - SW Face
Wind Ridge   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 4 pitches   Wind Tower - SW Face
Reggae   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches   Wind Tower - SW Face
Calypso Direct Start   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 20'   Wind Tower - SW Face
Futile Laments   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 170'   Wind Tower - S Face
Across The River From Butt Hair   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13     Trad, 2 pitches   Wind Tower - SW Face
Rastaman Roof   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad   Wind Tower - SW Face
I Did It My Way   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R     Trad, TR, 1 pitch   Wind Tower - SW Face
The Metamorphosis   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch   Wind Tower - S Face
Diffraction   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch   Wind Tower - S Face
Tagger   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches   Wind Tower - SW Face
King's X   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 2 pitches   Wind Tower - S Face
Scotch and Soda   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   Wind Tower - S Face
The Lion   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b X     Trad, 1 pitch   Wind Tower - S Face
Rainbow Wall   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Trad, Sport   Wind Tower - S Face
Browse More Classics in The Wind Tower

Featured Route For The Wind Tower
The Metamorphosis.

The Metamorphosis 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Wind Tower - S Face
This is a total classic. Do either The Yellow Traverse or Diffraction to lead into this climb.The climb begins in a right-facing dihedral halfway up the south face of the Wind Tower. Place pro, then pull left out of this dihedral onto a face with some left-trending jugs, crank onto these jugs (poorly protected .8) and up to two bolts. From the bolts, begin a rightward, rising traverse on flakes and jugs. The crux comes at a pull past a small, A-shaped flake with little in the way of feet. This move is...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of The Wind Tower Slideshow Add Photo
The Wind Tower as seen from The Bastille.
The Wind Tower as seen from The Bastille.
This chap was real happy to see us.  Even started playing us some music with his little rattle ;)  Maybe he was enchanting some of those cute chipmunks that eat climbers' food.
This chap was real happy to see us. Even started ...
Lee topping out on the Wind Tower solo.
Lee topping out on the Wind Tower solo.
This thread brought back memories of a day of climbing the "Wind Ridge" this me on the first pitch. Photo: Bruce Sposi <br /><a href='http://rockerwaves.blogspot.com/2010/10/images-from-my-climbing-days.html' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >rockerwaves.blogspot.com/2010/...</a>
This thread brought back memories of a day of clim...
Scramble N to saddle and rappel.
Scramble N to saddle and rappel.
Old high wire remains on top of Wind Tower.
Old high wire remains on top of Wind Tower.
The Wind Tower (early spring 2010).
The Wind Tower (early spring 2010).
Last light on the Wind Tower on a beautiful January day.
Last light on the Wind Tower on a beautiful Januar...
Springtime climbers.
Springtime climbers.
The Wind Tower.
The Wind Tower.
Chris setting up for the first pitch of a route on Wind Tower.
Chris setting up for the first pitch of a route on...
B/w.
B/w.
Wind Tower late Jan. 2009.
Wind Tower late Jan. 2009.
All I need is cams, cams, cams....
All I need is cams, cams, cams....
Bob Horan on Rainbow Wall, Wind Tower.
Bob Horan on Rainbow Wall, Wind Tower.

Comments on The Wind Tower Add Comment
Show which comments
By Kevin Craig
Apr 3, 2007
Thanks to some help from Ron Olsen and approval of the FHRC, there is a new rappel anchor for descending from the big ledge half way up the SW Face of the Wind Tower. The anchor is 2 x 12mm SS Fixe' Triplex bolts securing a tan-colored powder-coated Fixe' "Traditional Anchor" i.e. chain + welded SS rap ring.

The anchor is located approx. 10 feet above and to climber's right of the "traditional" rap tree (now cleaned of slings). It can be reached from the small sub-ledge just below the big ledge. It is located in nearly a direct line below the 2-bolt anchor at the top of p2 of The Bomb, West Overhang, Boulder Direct and Reggae. With a 60m rope, you should be able to stay on rappel and (just barely) clip the new anchor when rapping from the p2 bolts. The location is indicated in the area photo above. One 60m rope will get you from the new rap anchor to anywhere on the starting ledge.

Note that if you plan to do one of the pitches above the big ledge, it's best to bypass the new rap bolts and set a gear anchor directly below your chosen route.
By Bob Brockwehl
From: Golden, CO
Jul 26, 2009
The new bolt anchor described by Kevin Craig is not fully redundant and needs to be replaced or possibly improved with another chain attached to the upper bolt with a screw link. The rope could then be run through the lowest chain link and the existing ring. (There may be other options.)
By Greg Hand
From: Golden, CO
Jul 26, 2009
There is nothing wrong with the Fixe anchor system that was installed.
You can see the specs at fixeusa.com/traditional_anchor... .
The single ring that bothers most people is rated at 50kn=12,500lbs.
By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 26, 2009
Agree with Greg; the stainless-steel ring in the Fixe Trad anchor is plenty strong, and it isn't even the weakest link in the rappel chain. Other non-redundant components: your belay/rappel carabiner (25kN), your harness (16kN) and your rappel device. I talked with a Fixe USA rep and he said they have never heard of one of these rings failing. They wouldn't be selling this anchor if it wasn't absolutely bombproof.
By Kevin Craig
Jun 19, 2011
As the author of the FHRC application to install the "new" rap anchor, I'd like to plead with/remind people to use this anchor on the Wind Tower as a RAP ANCHOR ***NOT*** as a belay anchor (or dog forbid, TR anchor). It was installed to make descending from the top of the Bomb/Reggae/West Overhang area safer/easier and to preserve the former rap tree. Belaying from this anchor clogs up an already crowded descent even more, and there are plenty of good gear placements on the larger ledges above the bolts to build a belay anchor. Thanks.