BETA PHOTO: The Southwest face of the Wind Tower, showing the ...
This popular rock can be divided in character into its south
and southwest face
. The SW face
has some of the most frequently climbed routes in Eldorado Canyon and is probably the best area in Eldorado Canyon for those seeking lower end difficulty climbing. The rock is stellar for the first two pitches of climbs on this face. Above this the rock has seen less traffic and still has loose rock for the unsuspecting climber. On its S face
, you will find fewer companions since its vertical face and spartan protection options will deter all but the most ardent suitors.
Once, the summit provided an anchor point for the cable upon which crossed Ivy Baldwin
on many death-defying crossings of the canyon. The cable was taken down in 1974. Today, the cable remains testament to a disappearing breed of adventurer.
These are some of the earliest stomping grounds for Colorado legends like Layton Kor, Dick Bird, Dallas Jackson, Cleve McCarty, Larry Dalke, Pat Ament, Jeff Lowe, Jim Erickson, Steve Wunsch, Kevin Donald, Charlie Fowler, Duncan Ferguson, Kyle Copeland, Dan Hare, Mike Brooks, Richard Rossiter, and others.
Ultra-classics include: Calypso
, 5.6; Wind Ridge
, 5.6; the slippery Tagger
, 5.10c; Metamorphosis
, 5.9+ s; King's X
, 5.11a s; and Rainbow Wall
The low part of this wall does include some moderately popular bouldering and traversing. Note, if anyone has particularly good base digital photos for rendering a topo for this page, please let me know
Once you enter Eldorado Canyon State Park, you will hopefully find parking within 200 yards in one of two areas. Park. Walk uphill to the obvious bridge across South Boulder Creek. Cross the bridge. Look up & right. Follow the trail to the SW face
or veer right to the S face
Weather station 0.1 miles from here
51 Total Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',29],['1 Star',11],['Bomb',1]
Browse More Classics in The Wind Tower
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Wind Tower:
Featured Route For The Wind Tower
The Lion 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
: Eldorado Canyon SP
: ... : Wind Tower - S Face
The Lion climbs the blunt, improbable arete which forms the left side of the Rainbow Wall.Begin about 15 feet right of King's X and climb directly up flakes and small corners (5.11s) to a short slab and a good runner. Move up and slightly right to a mantle which gets one established on the right side of the arete. Now lieback up and left via insecure, 5.12 barndoor moves to a sloping "jug" and better holds on the arete. Climb directly up the arete, hard 5.9 with a 5....[more] Browse More Classics in CO
Local Information for The Wind Tower
Latest Regional Forum Messages
By Kevin Craig
Apr 3, 2007
Thanks to some help from Ron Olsen and approval of the FHRC, there is a new rappel anchor for descending from the big ledge half way up the SW Face of the Wind Tower. The anchor is 2 x 12mm SS Fixe' Triplex bolts securing a tan-colored powder-coated Fixe' "Traditional Anchor" i.e. chain + welded SS rap ring.
The anchor is located approx. 10 feet above and to climber's right of the "traditional" rap tree (now cleaned of slings). It can be reached from the small sub-ledge just below the big ledge. It is located in nearly a direct line below the 2-bolt anchor at the top of p2 of The Bomb, West Overhang, Boulder Direct and Reggae. With a 60m rope, you should be able to stay on rappel and (just barely) clip the new anchor when rapping from the p2 bolts. The location is indicated in the area photo above. One 60m rope will get you from the new rap anchor to anywhere on the starting ledge.
Note that if you plan to do one of the pitches above the big ledge, it's best to bypass the new rap bolts and set a gear anchor directly below your chosen route.
By Bob Brockwehl
From: Golden, CO
Jul 26, 2009
The new bolt anchor described by Kevin Craig is not fully redundant and needs to be replaced or possibly improved with another chain attached to the upper bolt with a screw link. The rope could then be run through the lowest chain link and the existing ring. (There may be other options.)
By Greg Hand
From: Golden, CO
Jul 26, 2009
There is nothing wrong with the Fixe anchor system that was installed.
You can see the specs at fixeusa.com/traditional_anchor... .
The single ring that bothers most people is rated at 50kn=12,500lbs.
By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 26, 2009
Agree with Greg; the stainless-steel ring in the Fixe Trad anchor is plenty strong, and it isn't even the weakest link in the rappel chain. Other non-redundant components: your belay/rappel carabiner (25kN), your harness (16kN) and your rappel device. I talked with a Fixe USA rep and he said they have never heard of one of these rings failing. They wouldn't be selling this anchor if it wasn't absolutely bombproof.
By Kevin Craig
Jun 19, 2011
As the author of the FHRC application to install the "new" rap anchor, I'd like to plead with/remind people to use this anchor on the Wind Tower as a RAP ANCHOR ***NOT*** as a belay anchor (or dog forbid, TR anchor). It was installed to make descending from the top of the Bomb/Reggae/West Overhang area safer/easier and to preserve the former rap tree. Belaying from this anchor clogs up an already crowded descent even more, and there are plenty of good gear placements on the larger ledges above the bolts to build a belay anchor. Thanks.