New moderate area with some very unique routes. Several are unlike anything else in the canyon. Great area for groups, classes, or just people looking to get better. The routes do tend to be short but they are all quality (with maybe 1 exception). Perfect shade until about 1:30pm but there are so many trees you can just sit in the shade while taking a break. There is even a few cracks for those wishing to try some gear. We would like to send a shout out to Matt Monson who is recovering from shoulder surgery and was unable to actually bolt with us but he did do a fantastic job on the landings!
Approach as per the Zoo, Projects, etc. The wall is the first one on your left about 50 feet after you enter the gully.
This is a great climb! Climb past a couple bolts to a steeper headwall section. Pull past this section on lots of fun pulling on great jugs. That's the crux, but it's also the best part of the route. (Stay left if you want the 5.10 experience; going right makes it easier). After that, the route slabs out a bit up to the chains....[more]Browse More Classics in UT
We called this area The Wild because it's close to The Zoo. It's just a bit more... dirty, overgrown, and... wild feeling. Kinda feels like a jungle.
Again, thanks to Matt for making the awesome landings.
This is the only beginner limestone area in the canyon. It's a great place to teach people how to climb. The routes are still a bit dirty. We've spent hours and hours cleaning them, but they're not quite perfect. So please be kind when commenting on the area and the routes and please feel free to take some brushes up with you. Enjoy!
Also, if someone wants to bolt the arete to the right of Migration, go for it. We're done with the area.
Great job on this area Crisco and Tristan. This makes a really great addition to Rock Canyon as a really good family/beginner area. Easy access from the trail, shady, no cliffs to worry about the kids falling off of, and quality short beginner routes. Thanks for all your hard work.
I really love this area a lot. It is cool and shady, secluded, in a beautiful part of the canyon, and a ton of fun. If you are wondering whether or not it's worth hiking further than the kitchen, red slab, or tinker toys to climb in Rock Canyon, come climb here, and you will definitely realize that yes, it is.
Great area guys, thanks for taking the time to clean and bolt this! Took my wife up to help get her lead head back today and she had a blast. Its not going to draw crowds from american fork, but its perfect for newer leaders to build their confidence.
Thank you to whomever built up the new landings! Fantastic work! It's amazing how popular this wall now is. We always thought the hike would dissuade people from going back there much. But it seems now that ever time I pass the crag it's a big party. If you go up here, be prepared to share routes. It's not "red slab bad" but it can be crowded on the weekends.
Great area. I got on one of the routes and it was well bolted and fun. One question though, around the corner to the left were two steeper bolted routes on what looked like good holds. Any idea what the two routes were?
People should now that there are many loose holds on the .10a climb ( chupacabra ) and the big flake is suspect. This is compounded by the fact that there are two belays under the drop zone. It has quickly become known as a family area and I have seen groups with babies very close to the base area, just because the routes are easy does not mean the inherent dangers are not present. I have been there in high winds and experienced smaller rocks being blown off from above.