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The Wild, Wild West (aka Wild West)
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.4 from 11
votes
Routes in Ridge 4
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Apostrophe S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Dodge City S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Drive By Shooting S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Gunsmoke S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Honeymoon In Beirut S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Hoss S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Killer Elite S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Lawyers, Guns, and Hilties S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Life During Wartime S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Little Joe S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Mighty Mo S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Miss Kitty S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Mud Shark T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Occupied Territory S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Pandora's Bosch S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Piece Process T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Pinch A Loaf S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Rawhide S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Wild, Wild West (aka Wild West), The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Fred Knapp, 1989 |
| Page Views: | 2,748 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | richard magill on Dec 31, 2000 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Private Property issues
Details
The West Bank / Wild West / Secret Crag has been problematic for years due to access concerns. There have been negative encounters with gun-toting landowners who have alleged that the entire mountain is on private property. Typical approaches involve brief crossing of railroad property which appears to be prohibited.
Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite.
Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents.
Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite.
Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents.
Description
Great line!
Go past all the lower routes and keep going up hill. From Occupied Territory (13a with an obvious dihedral start), continue past 5 or 6 lines uphill until you come to a 100 foot piece of stone with a hueco-loaded line going right up the middle.
This line is Wild Wild West.
The crux comes early and is not straightforward. I found that the way you attack it changes the grade significantly. After getting through this difficulty, there are several other 11 to 11+ moves as you work to the anchors.
This has great continuity and spectacular rock!
Go past all the lower routes and keep going up hill. From Occupied Territory (13a with an obvious dihedral start), continue past 5 or 6 lines uphill until you come to a 100 foot piece of stone with a hueco-loaded line going right up the middle.
This line is Wild Wild West.
The crux comes early and is not straightforward. I found that the way you attack it changes the grade significantly. After getting through this difficulty, there are several other 11 to 11+ moves as you work to the anchors.
This has great continuity and spectacular rock!
Photos
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5 Comments