The following areas are closed to all visitor use to protect peregrine falcon aeries from March 1 until August 1 of each year or until the young falcons of the current year have fledged: Fifi Buttress Immediately west of Leaning Tower. Closure includes all routes on Fifi Buttress.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
best pitch of the route -overhanging hands credit:...
Most of the day in the shade. Consists from The Widow's Tears proper which is ice climbing area in some years in the winter and Tower of Cosmic Wind, which is about 300 yards right from The Widow's Tears. Tower of Cosmic Wind is on the Buttress which lead to Stanford point via Wind Chill. On this Tower located two stelar routes " Windjammer" and "Windfall"
Take h/w 41 from the Valley floor. Park at long very narrow not paved pullout Just before Discovery View. From this pullout you can clearly see fissure of Widow's Tears. For " Windjammer" and "Windfall" cross the road and walk up ( no trail) taking right. The creek running from Widow's Tears should be at you left. At some point you will find ducks which lead to the base of " Windjammer". Approach routes class 3 from the right side as shown in Reid book. Approach take about 50 min For The Widow's Tears proper you walk directly up and than follow the bad of the creek. It bring you to the base where one rope is fix
EDIT, September 2012: Sometime after I made route approach description -Cal train repaved the road and old location of "very narrow not paved pullout" is gone - and instead it moved up the road closed to Discovery View and it exactly one mile from junction of hw 120/41. Now from east end of this new narrow and NOT paved pullout - you can see Tower of Cosmic Wind ( place where Windfall and Windjammer located). Even better view of this formation is from Discovery View9east end of Wawona tunnel) From new not paved pullout 1 mile from hw 120/41 go down and toward the Valley about 150 yards until you see open talus crossing the road. From there go up in direction toward Tower of Cosmic Wind try to approach from right side of the Tower follow the talus and cairns
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Widow's Tears Area:
P1. Thin crack, some off-fingers, hard for 10a, 70feetp2. Crux of the rout- turning the lip of 5 feet roof . Hard for 11a, or I did not figured out the right move. 70 feetp3. Traverse to the base of p4. short pitch 70 of 5.8p4. Awesome overhanging hands and fists. Remind me Pink Think at Indian creek, but much harder. I used 3 #1, 3#2, 2#3 , 1#4 Camalots and , 1#4 Friend for this pitch. 120 feet, 5.11ap5. Thin hands, off-fingers, fingers, low angle great pitch- ...[more]Browse More Classics in CA
Making approach description 3 years ago by myself - I had the hope to find Windfall base in 50 min. Yesterday we took 3 hours of bushwhacking ( more than Hans and Honnold to finish the Nose) and did not find the Tower of cosmic wind. Returned to the car . Found and explanation-with recent road repayment- Long paved pullout moved up the road about half kilometer - and old one - do not exist anymore. Aproach deskription need to be rewritten
I actually tried to go climbing there a week ago and had the same issue. We parked at the long paved pullout on the right side of the road just before Discovery View. The Reid guide mentions hiking up talus and I didn't see any talus above the road, only forest. Also it seemed like we were parked awfully far to the west. We had a late start and it was already too hot to be making a long uphill slog through bushes to a cliff that I wasn't even sure was the right cliff. We opted for an easy day of cragging around the Wawona Tunnel instead.
I will return with better beta and my nerve steeled for a long(ish) approach.
When we went back we used a small dirt pullout on the south side of the road maybe a fifth of a mile before the new paved pullout. From here you still have to walk downhill (toward the Valley) for a ways before heading up into the talus at a totally inobvious point. A short ways up you'll cross an old dirt road and there are cairns that mark the start of the best talus field to take. You're aiming for a little right of the tower actually since all the climbs are approached from ledges that lead in from the right. If you come up directly below the tower you will encounter bushwhacking.
If you are unsure what the Tower of Cosmic Winds is (we had no idea what it looked like) it's the large "tower" looking thing to the right of the Widow's Tears. The Widow's Tears is the pretty obvious bowl/recess which has a seasonal waterfall that comes down the middle of it. 45-50 min approach is about right, but it'll probably feel like longer, haha.