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The Wicked Witch 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Scott Ayers, Mark Colby, 1995
Page Views: 718
Submitted By: Joseph Stover on Jun 13, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Description 

Short hard crux of thin face moves down low with more moderate climbing to the anchors. There are some fun reaches getting to the shelf and then a bit more sustain pump above that.

Maybe one can aid to the 2nd bolt and then redpoint from there and call it 11a or so...

Location 

left of "we're not in kansas anymore"

Protection 

9 bolts + anchors up top


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By Joseph Stover
From: Batesville, AR
Jul 9, 2008

I am curious if anyone has done this route. I hate to be a number chaser, but I'd like to see if people really think it is 12a. Such a short crux. Don't hesitate to hurt my ego, I'd still be happy with 11d, don't see how it could possibly be any easier than that. I am just gonna go ahead and call it my first 12a redpoint.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Jul 10, 2008

Welcome to the club my brother! Short crux but thin and hard sort of bouldery. Way to go.
By jbak
Jul 11, 2008

Club dues are surprisingly reasonable. Just send $10 a month to JBak, PO box 11337, M11. You get a t-shirt and coffee mug.
By Joseph Stover
From: Batesville, AR
Jul 12, 2008

But no bumper sticker??? ...or are those only for the platinum elite members? ;)
By Joe Kreidel
From: Tucson, AZ
May 9, 2009

Man, Joseph, you and I had opposite experiences on this climb. The crux is short, but it shut me down hard. I must have tried 15 times the other day, and never could get it on a redpoint attempt. I'd definitely take full credit for 5.12 if this was my first one.
By Joseph Stover
From: Batesville, AR
Jun 18, 2009

The crux took me about 20 tries at least to just figure out a possible sequence. After that, the redpoint only took about 4 tries. I love beautiful, short, and hard sequences that lead to big holds.

The secret for me was finding the perfect right foot hold for going to the sharp pocket. There is a tiny horizontal bit on the lower part of the prow like bulge that has the right hand sidepull on it.

Man I miss AZ... Lemmon rocks...
By RyanJames
Sep 6, 2010

Definitely 12a!