The Wicked Crag  Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular Page Views:  13,605. Good page?    Administrators:  Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Tom Erickson Submitted By:  richard magill on Apr 20, 2004 Make this area a Favorite What's New   Print a Mini-Guide with routes Add Route  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event  Sun Mon Tue Wed Thu 77° | 48° 77° | 48° 82° | 52° 90° | 54° 90° | 54°

Working through the first crux [on Tiki Man].

Description 

This crag is one of the most developed and aesthetic crags in all of Mill Creek Canyon - a beautiful, overhanging streaked wall that holds a variety of difficult routes.

The crag itself splits into three main features:(1) A steep wall that looks like a tidal wave and overhangs 20 feet or more in its steepest section.(2) A recessed portion that is pretty much vertical. (3) A giant overhanging fin that has some ultra hard looking routes on it (and some reasonable ones, too).

There are a bunch or lines here (at least a dozen), ranging from 5.11 to 5.13 and beyond.The lines vary from overhanging powerfests to thin technical face climbs. Super fun and worthy of a trip!

The bolting is decent at this crag - good for a 5.12 leader. This is not really a place where you want to count on cozy pro - there can be some sparse bolts here.

The Wicked Crag is sort of Northwest facing. It gets sun in the late afternoon, but is in the shade most of the day.

There are a dozen routes or more just across the creek that get early sun. These are easy to spot and are accessed via a nice log bridge with a handline.

I've done many of these and they are also excellent quality, although you should be prepared for some sparse bolting at times.

Getting There 

Moab Desert Adventures provides a nice map - get it off their web site.You can park right at the trailhead if you can get off to the side of the road. Or down closer to the bridge if their is no room.Look for a trail (currently marked with a cairn) a couple hundred yards up the LaSal loop road from the Mill Creek bridge.

Follow the trail - going straight down leads to a poor trail into the canyon bottom.Veering off down canyon leads to a nice chain ladder directly to the crag.

The Classics

Featured Route For The Wicked Crag

Ferns Have Feelings Too 5.11  UT : Moab Area : ... : The Wicked Crag

A nice, "moderate" route located in the heart of the hardperson's paradise that is the Wicked Crag. Start by making a few stemming moves up a corner. Commit to the face on left via a nice sequence on beautiful, varnished crimps. Work through the distinct crux near the third bolt, and dance your way to the anchors on increasingly easy terrain.Feel free to post up if you have any FA information or additional beta. Alternatively, if you are offended that I (as a "non-local") posted the route, and w...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT