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The White Tower
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3 from 2 votes
Type: | Trad, Alpine, 900 ft (273 m), 7 pitches, Grade III |
FA: | Paul Freiburg, Kurt Blair, 1997 FFA Jay Knower, Yan Mongrain, August 2001 |
Page Views: | 4,765 total · 23/month |
Shared By: | Jay Knower on Jan 8, 2007 |
Admins: | Braden Batsford |
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Access Issue: National Park Registration
Details
You must pre-register before entering Nahanni National Park Reserve to climb in the Cirque of the Unclimbables. When you leave the park, de-registration is also required.
Reservations are required for the Cirque of the Unclimbables and the Vampire Peaks areas. For more information on registration and the required form: parks.canada.ca/pn-np/nt/na…
Please visit parks.canada.ca/pn-np/nt/na… for more information on climbing.
If you have any questions, please contact Nahanni National Park Reserve at the addresses and numbers below.
Email: nahanni.info@pc.gc.ca
Phone: 1-867-695-3151
Nahanni National Park Reserve
PO Box 348
Ft Simpson, NT
X0E 0N0
Canada
Reservations are required for the Cirque of the Unclimbables and the Vampire Peaks areas. For more information on registration and the required form: parks.canada.ca/pn-np/nt/na…
Please visit parks.canada.ca/pn-np/nt/na… for more information on climbing.
If you have any questions, please contact Nahanni National Park Reserve at the addresses and numbers below.
Email: nahanni.info@pc.gc.ca
Phone: 1-867-695-3151
Nahanni National Park Reserve
PO Box 348
Ft Simpson, NT
X0E 0N0
Canada
Description
The aptly named White Tower climbs up the left side of the prominent white pillar on the east face of Terrace Tower. This route has become a popular (for the Cirque) day route as it is relatively uncommitting and holds great climbing on good rock. The first two pitches are throw-away, but the next four pitches up the steep wall more than make up for the bummer start.
Pitches 1 and 2: Follow a weakness up and left to the base of the white pillar. 5.6
Pitch 3: Climb a wonderful crack in a left facing corner formed by the left side of the white pillar. This pitch has no real crux but the endurance pump feels about 11a.
Pitch 4: Climb through a dark overhang. When we climbed this pitch, it was dry which allowed us to free it at about 11a. Because of the dark rock, its easy to imagine the pitch wet and therefore unfreable. If dry, grunt up the chimney using chicken wings. For pro, I remember less than optimal stoppers placed behind a wedged block.
Pitch 5: Climb steep cracks up the face. Belay on the left side of a huge ledge that is one pitch below the top of the wall. 5.10+
Pitch 6: Follow the same crack system up deteriorating rock to the top. 5.9
Descent: Rap the route using two ropes.
Pitches 1 and 2: Follow a weakness up and left to the base of the white pillar. 5.6
Pitch 3: Climb a wonderful crack in a left facing corner formed by the left side of the white pillar. This pitch has no real crux but the endurance pump feels about 11a.
Pitch 4: Climb through a dark overhang. When we climbed this pitch, it was dry which allowed us to free it at about 11a. Because of the dark rock, its easy to imagine the pitch wet and therefore unfreable. If dry, grunt up the chimney using chicken wings. For pro, I remember less than optimal stoppers placed behind a wedged block.
Pitch 5: Climb steep cracks up the face. Belay on the left side of a huge ledge that is one pitch below the top of the wall. 5.10+
Pitch 6: Follow the same crack system up deteriorating rock to the top. 5.9
Descent: Rap the route using two ropes.
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