|4. Moby Grape Area
I started to set the climb up for climbing by myself by doing the beginning roped soloed because near to the start of it there was necessity to placing 2 bolts to get past a practically too smooth to climb ramp. I invited Anders Kressy to climb it with me. I led the first pitch using the bolts for aid (A-0) and then went through the easy arch via a horizontal finger crack. Over the arch a little higher up was the exit rappel station to Vertigo where I belayed Anders up too. We rappelled.
Shortly after that I told Jim Shimberg about the climb and invited him to bolt the second pitch if he wanted to? Jim went for it rope solo I believe and did a magnificent bolting of the climb above Vertigo’s rappel station for 2 pitches. Bravo Jim.
Soon after that Jim had put the bolts in he invited me too do the climb with him. I led it all at 5-11d(A-0). The next summer it was free climbed by Scott Stevenson at (5-12) past the first pitch bolts. The third pitch is (5-8) ramps bolted and cracks trad gear to the base of Moon Shadow.
Right of Vertigo section and left of North Southwest, look for the large arch 50ft up.
Many old bolts, Trad. gear mostly stoppers. Rappel station below Moon Shadow.