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Armed and Dangerous Area (Main Cliff Left)
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Anchovy Caper, The 
Armed and Dangerous, and Off My Medication 
Arugula, Arugula 
Barbershop Duet 
Big Easy, The 
Boats from Cuba 
Bonnie and Clyde 
Bourbon Street 
Brendan's Bitches 
Cereal Killer 
Climb and Punishment 
Clusterphobia 
Far From Feral 
Fish Corner  
Flying Squirrel 
Green Mile 
Half Nelson 5.7/ Full Nelson 5.11b 
Juicy Fingers 
Maltese Falcon, The 
Maria's Variation 
Men In White Suits 
Metamorphosis 
Mister Meaner 
open project 
Rainbow 
Scene of the Crime 
Sesame Street 
Slack 
Toxic Gumbo 
White Buttress, The 

The White Buttress 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Chris hassig and Mark iber 1979!
Page Views: 399
Submitted By: lee hansche on Dec 3, 2011
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Description 

Scamper up very easy low angle rock to the base of the white wall. The crack angles left to right on quartz with a dose of lichen. It follows a crack but you do a good bit of face climbing. The climbing is good, the positioning is AMAZING! You will be looking down in to the Baker River Valley and the river it self bending its way through. The best place to view this area we love so much.

Place a nice solid piece and step up in to it. A finger size cam placed just after I started kept me happy as I made sense of the strange crack holds, slippery quartz feet and face holds hidden by lichen. After a 15 foot crux section you can stand on your feet before clipping a pin and pulling one more tricky section. This upper bulge is a little less difficult but more fun than the crux. Top out on a nice jug and decide where you'd like to anchor. There isn't a perfect spot to do so but a few trees to choose from.

With a good cleaning this would be a great climb. Not sure if it would see enough use to keep it clean unless it was bolted. That wouldn't be aweful but I think it's fine how it is.


Location 

This is a 3rd above the Armed and Dangerous area That tops out on the highest point on the Main Cliff. Best way to approach the route is by climbing The Big Easy (5.7), to Bourbon Street (5.10c). The white butress will be right above you at the anchor of Bourbon.

If you wanted to, you could get to the base of the route by hiking around and scrambling around the climbers left side of the buttress and anchoring to a tree. but the approach pitches are fun and a good warm up for the main event.


Protection 

Regular rack, fixed pin. Belay from trees.



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