The Whimper of Our Discontent
|240 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, 1 pitch, 55 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.7 [details]|
|FA: ||TooTall Tim Davis & Tony Bubb, 6/08|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Faces West|
|Submitted By: ||Tony B on Jun 23, 2008|
More Steinbeck on the mind here, and my favorite fiction book of all time.
While this climb was indeed named after a "loose" flake on it, but as it turns out it was not loose at all. In fact, after some genuine effort, it was un-freeable. We were discussing the name 'Flakes Of Wrath' but in hindsight, that name has been taken.
The center of 3 cracks on the West Face holds a flake about 3 or 4 meters up that juts out quite strangely. Climb this crack and offset system to the top of the crag.
A standard light rack. The flake 10' up seems to be a ball-and-socket and can not seem to be removed, but does wobble a bit and so is less than ideal for gear. Start off with a small-ish stopper and a small Alien (green?) in a small crack, then go up and over. The big flake is a bomber hand/foot.