The Whale's Tail Rock Climbing
The Whale's Tail from across the river.
|Bastille - M-F closures. Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>|
Many routes exist on this little rock. Some of the easiest slab routes in the canyon and some difficult lines often toproped.
Cross the bridge--it's basically right off the trail to the West next to Redgarden and across from the Bastille.
Weather station 0.1 miles from here
31 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',13],['1 Star',15],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in The Whale's Tail
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Whale's Tail
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Whale's Tail:
West Crack 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 160'
New Cambria 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
R Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 90'
Free Speech 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Featured Route For The Whale's Tail
West Crack 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c CO
: Eldorado Canyon SP
: The Whale's Tail
In my opinion, this is the finest beginner's lead climb in the state. It has excellent pro and easy but airy climbing.The traverse to the belay ledge is 4th class but exposed; it is a good idea to rope up on it. From the roomy belay ledge, the crack goes straight up - no rope drag and no route finding. The start is the most intimidating part, but it is easier than it looks.Holds are generously placed in and around the crack and always where you need them. There are a few easy jams ...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
Local Information for The Whale's Tail
Latest Regional Forum Messages
By Matt Rutledge
Jan 11, 2002
This is a great rock for people who want to get into leading. The crack numbered (1) goes about 5.2 with pro placements at about every move. The crack numbered (3) goes about 5.4 with even more pro placements than the other crack. Both anchors are solid, and can be backed up if so desired. The face (2) is easily TR'd from the anchor for the first crack. It goes about 5.easy.
I think the crux of this entire face is getting to the belay ledge.
Oh. A 60m rope is really nice to have for raping off the anchors on the first crack. I've had bad luck getting ropes stuck on this one, so stand as far to climbers right as you can when pulling the ropes.
Nov 24, 2003
Getting to the base of the west face of this rock is a bit hairy. It's not that you're afraid of falling, it's just that the ground is so far away.
By Anonymous Coward
Jun 12, 2004
I've felt for many years that the ratings are backwards. That the left crack is 5.2 with some 5.4 moves while the curving corner to the right is almost class 4 with some 5.2 moves to exit to the anchor. Any other comments?
By Mike Abraham
May 25, 2005
I kind of agree with the comment that the crack (#1 in the photo) seems harder than the corner (#3 in the photo). I think the crack just seems steeper, and is definitely longer. The corner has only the one move to get around the flake. So I guess I give 'em each a 5.3 to even it out. No matter how you slice it, they're both terrific routes, no matter how good you are.
By Benjamn P
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 16, 2015
LOST GEAR: my girlfriend borrowed my rack & got a cam stuck on 3/15/15. See 'West Crack' for description.