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The Whale is the long, humped fin on the west side of Red Rock Canyon between upper lake and the north side of the Quarry.
Two trails access the wall. The first takes off from the west canyon trail and climbs to a notch with steps and a dirt bank and then up left and back right through scrub oak to the northern part of the face. The rail reaches the face just south of Aphrodite. The second ascends a bushy ramp system left (south) of Solar Slab to the right of Never Ever Slab, walk left along the top of the slab to reach the cliff-base trail. A path along the cliff base connects the two trails. Avoid bushwhacking and scrambling off the trails, so new social trails or not created. Also, watch for poison ivy. (All information is from Red Rock Canyon Open Space book by Stewart M. Green.)
Never Ever Slab (down and left of the bulk of The Whale)
29 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Whale:
The Good Stuff 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b Sport, 1 pitch
Aborigine 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b Sport, 1 pitch, 55'
Blow Tube Envy 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b Sport, 1 pitch, 105'
Honeymoon Down Under 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b PG13 Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Undulating Dingo 5.8- 5b 16 VI- VS 4c Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Virgin Bolters 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Just Happens 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
The Captain 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
The Thin Line 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Happy Ending (formerly Top-Rope) 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Mister MIA 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
First Mate 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Aphrodite 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Route to the left of The Thin Line 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Among the Stars 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 110'
Gomers in Blue Shirts 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
The Plunge 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Arnold’s Demise 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 105'
Featured Route For The Whale
Happy Ending (formerly Top-Rope) 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a CO : Colorado Springs : ... : The Whale
This line was originally published as a top-rope problem on the left side of The Never Ever Slab. It apparently needed a lot more cleaning. Now it hosts 5 bolts and delicate climbing. The first crux comes after the 1st bolt and seems to trend right. It seemed reachy, but even 5'1" climbers figured it out. There is a section below the 5th bolt that has a friable edge (part of which broke), so tread lightly. The second crux, near the 5th bolt, seems to pull you slightly left. Again, this se...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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