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 ADVANCED
The Diedre Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Budapest T 
Cooney - Russell T 
Diedre T 
Last Temptation T 
Lousianna Bubble Bath T 
Underground T 
Wez, The T 
Unsorted Routes:

The Wez 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Neil Cannon & Russ Clune, July 1984
Page Views: 556
Submitted By: Freddie Wilkinson on Sep 27, 2011

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Description 

Climb up the corner, sharing the first 20 feet of the crux pitch of Diedre. Where Diedre breaks right around the roof, continue straight up following a nice finger crack (5.10) to a stance below the crux. Clip two bolts, then crank through a tricky stem problem to a stance. Nest some gear (small cams, brass RPs helpful here) before punching through some fingertip layback moves to easier climbing.

Move left on a ledge to a belay, shared with The Last Temptation. As of Sept. '11 there is a fixed anchor of two pins and one nut that is adequate for rappelling/lowering.

This route has been recently cleaned and deserves more traffic.

Location 

Begin at the top of the Triple Ledges, below the crux roof of Diedre.

Protection 

Protects well, with effort. Be prepared for short run-outs.


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