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Wet Kiss, The 

The Wet Kiss 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: David Rubine and Kelly Rich, 1998
Page Views: 3,474
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Jul 12, 2003
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BETA PHOTO: Follow the bolts to the top anchor, which you cann...
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This face route heads up a less than vertical section about 50 feet right of Portant (5.6) that faces the same direction of Portent.

Climb up to the bolted wide cracklike system that starts about 20 feet up from the path, and it's a simple slab walk up to the first bolt. For an added move, boulder over the first bulge on the way to the first bolt (still a 5.9.)

After the first bolt, use the crack to move over a short vertical section, and then follow the bolts up the crack system to a mantle move at the fourth bolt. Continue upwards, where climbing is easier to the top anchors, which are obscured from view from the ground.


6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. A small piece of pro can be added to the crack crux, which is after the first bolt.

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By Anonymous Coward
Jan 27, 2004

just a question - why bolt a crack???

By Bruce Hildenbrand
Apr 5, 2006

The route follows a crack that only takes protection in the one place mentioned in the route description. If you don't place a piece and rely on only the bolts you are risking a serious whipper if you fall.
This is not a bolted crack.


By M.Morley
From: Sacramento, CA
Apr 5, 2006

I've led Wet Kiss probably a half dozen times. Personally, I find that trying to fiddle in gear between the first and second bolts is more effort than it's worth. You make the crux move with a bolt at your waist.

By Bruce Hildenbrand
Apr 5, 2006

I don't place a piece either. I was trying to point out that, given the first comment, that this is not a bolted crack. The first ascentionists allow the leader to place more protection if they feel they need it and didn't just put in a convenience bolt.


By M.Morley
From: Sacramento, CA
Apr 5, 2006

I agree, Bruce, it's definitely not a bolted crack, despite the appearance in the photo above. The bolts are thoughtfully placed.

By Jeff Dopp
From: Goodlettsville, TN
Jan 27, 2008

Bolted Crack!! In my humble opinion using trad gear in any crack at the Pinns is at best worst silly, and this comes from someone who has watched more than a few stoppers spinning down the rope at me while dropping onto the last bolt. If there is any area where bolts next cracks is nice...this is it!

By rafael
From: Berkeley, CA
Jan 9, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a PG13

I am normally anti bolting cracks, but pro is not to be trusted in pinnacles rock. Even holds are suspect.

By Keith Forest
Mar 23, 2013

Try leading it without using the bolts.

By Johnny Y
From: California
Mar 25, 2013

The first bolt seems too high for short people, I could not reach it at all on a good stance, had to make half a move and clip the bolt while in an awkward position. Better to put in a small metolius down low and just don't bother with the 1st bolt.