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The Eaglet
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Peregrine Arete T 
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West Chimney, The T 

The West Chimney 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Peter Gabriel
Page Views: 4,947
Submitted By: lee hansche on Jul 26, 2007

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On top at dusk.

Description 

Pitch 1: Climb past at least one pin on steep rock till about 15 feet up where it gets slabby... At this point climb the slab up and left to easy yet loose ground heading in to the trees and a gully to the base of the chimney that marks the second pitch... Belay at the base of the chimney with gear...

Pitch 2: Climb up the right hand of the two chimneys... A really fun classic pitch... Climb past the chock stone and up to a nice belay ledge typically there is a fixed anchor here that may or may not need to be backed up...

Pitch 3: The traditional way to finish the route is to corkscrew your way through the notch between the cliff and the spire then up the back side of the spire and on to the spectacular summit... If you go this way there is only one hard move which is easier if you are tall...

Pitch 3 variation: I like this variation way more than the original... From the top of the chimney belay head up a system of cracks to an arete staying on the west side of the spire... Break right on to the beautiful and exposed face following cracks as you traverse right to a fun and wicked exposed move on to a final slab to the top...

Which ever way you finish, you can belay from bolts on top and rap from the ring/bolts on the west face just over the lip...

The summit is so cool... It's about the size of a picnic table with nothing but air around you on all sides...

Amazing...

Location 

As you approach the eaglet this route starts on the left from a dirt ledge... You will see pins in a cracked face above...

Protection 

Standard rack... Double ropes needed to get back to the ground in a single rappel...


Photos of The West Chimney Slideshow Add Photo
the line of The West Chimney route...
BETA PHOTO: the line of The West Chimney route...
One of the coolest (and smallest) summits I'v experienced
One of the coolest (and smallest) summits I'v expe...
Climber on the Eaglet.
Climber on the Eaglet.
here I'm leading the variation to the 3rd pitch... highly recommended...
here I'm leading the variation to the 3rd pitch......
my dad heading through the vegitated area on the first pitch...
my dad heading through the vegitated area on the f...
Ernie Hansche (my dad) finishing the awesome second pitch of The West Chimney
Ernie Hansche (my dad) finishing the awesome secon...
silhouette on the 3rd pitch
silhouette on the 3rd pitch
Torie reaching for the summit
Torie reaching for the summit
Larry Boehmler right after the crux of the West Chimney route.
Larry Boehmler right after the crux of the West Ch...
end of pitch 2 looking south through the notch <br />
end of pitch 2 looking south through the notch
Torie peeping the traverse across the front of the eaglet... not part of the West chimney route but a fun variation finish...
Torie peeping the traverse across the front of the...

Comments on The West Chimney Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 8, 2014
By Barrett Stetson
Sep 8, 2011

Any comment on how good the protection is on this climb? Looks like a lot of fun.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 8, 2011

The gear is great! get after it!
By Barrett Stetson
Sep 8, 2011

Awesome, think that's my Saturday plan :). Did you do any of the 5.8's over there (e.g. Route 66 or Salted Packed Pig Sack)? Wondering if either of those are good protected routes to try too if there is time.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 9, 2011

i did salt pack... pretty well protected with small cams and nuts between the bolts but not a straight forward line, gear options are hard to see in places, and there is some loose rock, one very large flake the felt like it wanted to come off...
By Barrett Stetson
Sep 14, 2011

Definitely a fun route and the gear was good. I thought the second pitch might have been a tad harder than the first, but still about 5.7. Ran into a little rope drag on second pitch.
By cwoodman
From: Lincoln, NH
Sep 29, 2011

Another really good variation goes right at the top of pitch 2 for 60 ft. to the middle of the Long Wall and a belay at a 2 bolt anchor on a tiny ledge. Climb straight up a crack (5.7) to the beautiful, featured face above and keep going to another 2 bolt anchor at the top of the wall, passing a couple of bolts along the way. I put in the anchors and bolts in the mid 90's. Makes for a really nice extra pitch finish to a climb of the Eaglet.
By cwoodman
From: Lincoln, NH
Sep 30, 2011

Sorry, I meant go left, not right, at the saddle at the top of P2.
By burlap submariner
Nov 6, 2011

the best summit for the grade in NH.
By Joey Croft
From: Lyndonville, Vt
May 20, 2012

awesome climb, just did it today. be warned while pulling the last move to the pitch 2 belay. there is a very large loose rock directly above and touching the right face!
By Brian M. Smith
Jul 5, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

Awesome climb. Pay attention to the descent beta. Don't try to double rope rappel from the top of pitch 2. Too much friction. Stuck rope = mini epic. Bring bug spray, lots of water and sunscreen. Very remote.
By Michael Z.
Jul 5, 2012

Yes! Bug spray, I always forget!
By ntableman
Jul 6, 2012

So, there are three clear bolts on the various sides of the spire top portion - 1 on the back and 2 on the arete climb. There are also 2 bolts and 2 rap rings on the top, which was really reassuring to see.

We went up from the belay spot to the bolt on the Westerish side to help protect a 5.7ish move up to the big crack, then we went to the front of the spire and hand traversed across, grabbed the fin/arete along the top and reached over to clip the rap rings.

We sat on top for about an hour, it was so pretty.

Then we rap'ed to the grassy ledge and top roped the crack and arete for fun.

On the way down we backed up the tree rap with another cord to help keep is safe - left it there for the next adventurer!

Oh and the bugs were killer! I dont use bug sray, but if bugs bother you, bring it!
By KTH
From: Southington, Connecticut
Jun 3, 2014

This is a great climb , and an interesting formation ... but I question whether it truly is the tallest "freestanding" tower in the east. The drop to the notch behind it is really only ~45 feet, if that. It does jut out from the main wall more than anything else I have seen, but surely there are more "freestanding" formations around? The Man-in-the-Rock pillar in the NJ Palisades may beat it, and surely a sea stack in Maine or Canada tops this.
By Brian
From: North Kingstown, RI
Sep 8, 2014

I've done this route a bunch of times and as recently as yesterday. Every time I do it I think that the start of the first pitch is harder than 5.7 and I'm usually accused of sandbagging grades. I go up the broken right facing corner laying back a finger crack to a pin with tat on it and then cut straight left across the slab. Is that the way everyone goes or do you go up to the pin on the left directly under the rather dirty slab and then up the slab? I do not use the lower pin on the left of the corner. It seems like you could go either way but that the broken corner looks more traveled.
By Ming
Sep 8, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Pitch 3 variation is the way to go - easy traverse with phenomenal exposure for some memorable 5.5ish moves.

There is another 3rd pitch variation - from the bolt swing right to stay on the west side of the spire. Instead of traversing the horizontal go straight up the arete. Wonderful and airy but the climbing is really reasonable at around 5.8 (+? Not sure) or so. Fantastic way to finish the climb and it felt super exposed in that position as my left hand was grabbing the arete the whole time. The horizontal has an old pin in it that I backed up with a .5 and it felt bomber. The fall from the arete would be clean so go for it!