|Consensus:||YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]|
|FA:||Steve Monks, 1980|
|Fixed Hardware:||3 Lead Pins [details]|
|Submitted By:||Tony B on Nov 9, 2001|
|Comments on The West Arete (of T1)||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Brad Bond
Jun 21, 2002
|The guidebook shows some fixed pins around the area of the crux but they are gone (there might be one up higher where it's easy). I saw some pin scars but was unable to wiggle in anything so the crux has to be done about 30 or 40 feet above gear. Spicy.|
By Chris. T.
From: Longmont, Co.
Jan 28, 2008
|As of 1/27/08, there are 3 pins total on the route (all near harder sections) and they are not inspiring. The climbing is ultra classic! I would recommend that you feel comfortable soloing 5.9 Eldo before leading the first pitch of this route. The second pitch is not as hard but even more runout until you get just below the junction with 'Icarus'. The description in Rossiter's guide is quite good, although a 'VS' or 'X' rating may be appropriate.|
From: Smoulder, CO
Jan 11, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
|That was scary. The climbing was really good, but what little pro I found--with the exception of a slung horn--was psychological only. We only climbed from just above the bulge where YS meets it, nevertheless this arete is a fun and exciting way to get to Icarus. It is quite runout until joining up with Icarus, but by then, 5.6 R is a relief. :)|
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Sep 13, 2014
3 pins total there right now - one is left of the arete and backs up with a small (first knuckle) stopper or cam. The two on the arete are so-so but should hold a fall. No way to back them up though.
I believe the FA was done on free solo, so I'm not sure when the pins happened to be placed.