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The Weeping Wall

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Bye Gully 
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Ten Karat Gold 

The Weeping Wall 

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Administrators: C Miller, M.Morley, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 20, 2006
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71° | 45°
Partly Cloudy
71° | 42°
64° | 39°
67° | 46°
71° | 47°
BETA PHOTO: The 300ft Weeping Wall (from above Rebolting Devel...
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The Weeping Wall is a popular 300' high smooth slab of rock with routes up to three pitches in length. Due to the slabby nature of the wall all of the climbs here are moderate and range from 5.8 to 5.10c. Some standout climbs here include Surprise (5.8), Serpentine (5.9), Revelation (5.10a) and Ten Karat Gold (5.10a R).

To descend walk over until looking straight down on Paisano Pinnacle and then locate a 2 bolt anchor which requires a bit of scrambling/downclimbing to reach. From the anchors rap 80' to Paisano Ledge and then rappel another 80' from a bolted anchor down Bye Gully, the large break on the left side of the wall. After the last rappel a bit of easy downclimbing reaches the base of the Bye Gully. Those not wishing to downclimb can rappel 165' directly to the bottom of the Bye Gully. As an alternative one can walk along the summit to the north face area and come down just right of where the rock ends which requires nothing more than a long walk.

Getting There 

Follow the trail from the car and once you reach the base of the rock look up through the trees where you'll see this large slab.

12 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Weeping Wall:
Surprise   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c R     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   
Serpentine   5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   
Surprise Direct   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a R     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   
Revelation   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   
Ten Karat Gold   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a R     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
Duck Soup   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b PG13     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   
Browse More Classics in The Weeping Wall

Featured Route For The Weeping Wall
Starting the traverse on pitch one.  Photo: Robs Muir

Ten Karat Gold 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : ... : The Weeping Wall
Ten Karat Gold is perhaps the finest route on the Weeping Wall and comes highly recommended, but be aware it's fairly runout with some long falls possible (especially on the 2nd pitch).This is the right-most line on the slab proper and starts near a large oak tree below a ledge. Easy scrambling (5.0) up a right-slanting ramp leads to a large belay ledge and the start of the climb.P1) Climb past two bolts, make a traverse right and then up to a third bolt (5.9); higher two more bolts le...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of The Weeping Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Looking up The Weeping Wall
BETA PHOTO: Looking up The Weeping Wall
Korean Climbing club on the Weeping Wall. 6-15-13
Korean Climbing club on the Weeping Wall. 6-15-13
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