The Weeny Roofs
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Solo 30 feet of 5.5/5.6 face climbing to reach the first bolt. Clip a second bolt and climb past an obvious roof with long, powerful moves off of positive crimps. Bolts adequately protect the leader through these awkward and sandy roof moves.
Traverse left on a ledge. Pull a few steep, strenuous moves on the right side of the arete before pulling left onto the face. This section is the crux of the route. If you fall at the crux, the route's third bolt will not keep you off of the ledge below. Clip one last bolt which adequately protects slabby moves leading to a huge ledge.
Unprotected 5.4 face climbing leads to the summit--although it is possible to escape right by walking along the ledge.
In between the various bolts, expect little in the way of protection. This is not a sport route.
This is the hardest 5.10 at the cliff (much harder than either Great Race or the 5.10a alternates of Face Lift).
The right-most developed line at San Ysidro. Hike up the gully along the base of the cliff from Fine Line to access the start. Look for the unmistakable roof that forms the lower part of the route.
4 lead bolts. Gear (tiny to 1.5") and a single bolt comprise the top anchor.
|Comments on The Weeny Roofs
|By Matthew Fienup|
From: Ventura, CA
Jul 31, 2007
This route is poorly protected for the leader when pulling the crux. Also, it is very difficult to top-rope this route unless you place a #1 TCU (or corresponding nut) above the first roof so that the climber has directional support while pulling through this awkward, strenuous section--without the extra pro, a fall at the roof would result in a 15-foot, rope-shredding pendulum.
The crux moves above the 3rd bolt are difficult--absolutely dumbfounding considering the original grade of 5.9. Either something has broken off, or this is the biggest sandbag in Santa Barbara.
|By Adam D|
From: Los Osos, CA
Dec 20, 2007
agreed. just not that pleasant climbing either. skip it.
|By Nick Sullens|
From: Hong Kong, Hong Kong
Apr 9, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a PG13
Climbed this today, was a little dirty but overall pretty fun. Basically two boulder problems separated by easy climbing. I found it pretty well protected, there is a small cam placement before the first bolt and after that I thought the bolts protected the cruxes sufficiently.
|By andy patterson|
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Nov 24, 2010
Discontinuous climbing on passable rock. It won't change your world, but hey, it's rock climbing, so go have fun.
|By Richard Shore|
Feb 6, 2011
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b R
Fun route with bouldery moves over the roofs. Don't get sandbagged thinking this is 5.9! A fall at the crux isnt advised. Place directionals for your follower after BOTH roof sections
|By Jordan Collins|
Sep 25, 2013
Do a V2. walk around on a ledge for however long you want. Do a V3 that would hurt to fall on. Go to the anchors. or trees. Wonder why you didn't just get a pad and go bouldering.