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The Weatherman's Thumb
5.12d YDS 7c French 28 Ewbanks IX UIAA 28 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 2.9 from 15
votes
Routes in G) Diamond Point
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Breadcrumb Trail T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Can I Do It Till I Need Glasses T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Crack A Smile T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Dark Side, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Durometer 64 T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fine Motor Control S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Gift of Grace, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Homer Erectus S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Leave it to Jesus T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Leave it to Jesus Direct Finish T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Ovine Seduction T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Raging Waters T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Remission T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Straight Up and Stiff T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Strike A Scowl S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Stupendid Animation T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Supersymmetry T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X |
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This Sport Needs an Enema S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Weatherman's Thumb, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Zygomatic T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | Rick Thompson, Carl Samples (1994) |
| Page Views: | 2,063 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Fred Gomez on Nov 27, 2011 |
| Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS
Details
All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.
Description
This wall is not as aesthetically pleasing as some of the other nearby walls, but it offers some unique climbing. Begin with some interesting 5.11 face climbing for the first four or five bolts.
The crux begins when you pass through the large diagonal flake that separates the wall. The rock kicks back a little bit and hanging/clipping the next three draws can be very difficult (skipping a draw here could be the way to go). Claw your way up tiny holds, utilizing two left hand crimps with nice thumb catches. The final moves of the sequence will be much harder if you're shorter, but still achievable. The crux is short lived and soon you'll be strolling through easier slopey climbing.
This route is located on the corner of Diamond Point that receives afternoon sun light. The route can feel a bit dank and slippery if you get on it in the morning. Its best to let it dry off before attempting it.
The crux begins when you pass through the large diagonal flake that separates the wall. The rock kicks back a little bit and hanging/clipping the next three draws can be very difficult (skipping a draw here could be the way to go). Claw your way up tiny holds, utilizing two left hand crimps with nice thumb catches. The final moves of the sequence will be much harder if you're shorter, but still achievable. The crux is short lived and soon you'll be strolling through easier slopey climbing.
This route is located on the corner of Diamond Point that receives afternoon sun light. The route can feel a bit dank and slippery if you get on it in the morning. Its best to let it dry off before attempting it.
Photos
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