On the northwest side of Hornsby's, The Way It Is is the right route of the two bolted lines. Climb through the bolts which are often closely spaced (two are a couple of feet apart). Fixed anchors and a one rope rappel to get off.
bolted route, fixed anchors at the top
|By John Klooster|
From: Arvada, CO
Oct 8, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
First bolt is a spinner and second bolt is hanging out of the hole.
|By Brent Kertzman|
From: Black Hills, SD
Feb 9, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
We found there to be problems with the gauging size of both styles of Rawl 5/16" bolts. We had two new 5/16" bits that were sized correct. Thus there are two bolts of dubious quality close together near the bottom. You have my blessing to replace the first two bolts with one bolt near the second location. Oh the problems with hand drilling in the transitional era.
Based on the fact that the bolts were drilled on the lead from free stances, I'm not real certain how this route got catergorized as a sport route. The route makes a safe stepping stone for beginning leaders. The original rating was 5.8 and still seems right in that ballpark.
|By Byron J. Hastings|
From: Mystic, SD
Sep 6, 2011
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Kertzman, get off your lazy ass and go fix this route or get the BHCC to do it. The route is very fun but the bolts leave a little too be desired. The bolt count could be reduced by one if the first two werwe rearranged. There is no real need for another bolt up high... after this is still the Needle last time I checked.