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Supercrack Buttress
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24 Variation T 
24 Unknown T 
3AM Crack T 
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Anasazi T 
Bad Rad Duality T 
Binge and Purge T 
Bongo Flake T 
Coyne Crack T 
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super bubbushka T 
Super Surprised T 
Supercrack of the Desert T 
Supershack 
Too Much Cake T 
Triple Jeopardy T 
Twin Cracks T 
Unknown T 
Unknown on far left side of wall T 
Unknown Right of Too Much Cake T 
Unknown, left of Keyhole Flake T 
Unnamed T 
Wave, The T 
Wild Works of Fire T 
Zow T 
Unsorted Routes:

The Wave 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: not sure
Page Views: 6,288
Submitted By: Andrew Wellman on Mar 9, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (103)
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Ryan on the sharp end halfway up The Wave.

Description 

This beautiful lieback crack is positioned right in the middle of Supercrack buttress, somewhere right of Gorilla, and somewhat left of Coyne. Look for a large left leaning lieback with a couple of bulges interspersed with killer rests. The left hand wall is a really cool rippled rock that looks like little waves or small dunes on a beach. Start on a small pedestal and jam up the corner for a ways before busting into a lieback over a bulge. Easy, low angle climbing leads to another liebacking bulge up high to the anchors. A really cool climb.


Protection 

A couple of cams or each size from about #0.5 Camalot to #2 Camalot. The crack changes sizes alot so you only need a couple of each size.



Photos of The Wave Slideshow Add Photo
Resting on the big ledge before the upper crux.
Resting on the big ledge before the upper crux.
the most aesthetic and varied line in SB.  hands-down. <br /> <br />on lead pondering on the sustained off-vertical layback crux...
the most aesthetic and varied line in SB. hands-d...
Jon leading The Wave.
Jon leading The Wave.
Looking up at the well shaded climbing of The Wave.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up at the well shaded climbing of The Wave...
Comments on The Wave Add Comment
Show which comments
By L. Hamilton
Apr 5, 2002

My favorite at SB, more varied than most. The top crux feels committing, place gear and then go for it.

By Brian Weinstein
May 5, 2005
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

What a pretty seam. As an I-Creek 10d, be prepared to place gear on a lieback or cruise to the rests. Bring a couple #0.75 and 0.5 Camalots. A black tri-cam worked nicely before the layback crux. Enjoy.

By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Feb 28, 2006
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Best on the wall in my opinion. Great cruxes, great rests, a variety of gear, and a sprint to the finish. I used (BDs) 4x0.5, 4x0.75, 4x1, 4x2, and 1x3.... yes you could do it with 2 of each size, but it is a long pitch (120 feet?), so do the math.

By Alexander Nees
From: Grand Junction, CO
Apr 12, 2010
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

A great climb, but I got a bit hosed by the gear beta in Bloom's 2nd ed. guide, which recommends 3 2.5 Friends. I typically convert 2.5 and 3 Friends to #2 C4s; the gear list led me to take lotsa 2s but only a couple .75s and 1s. NOT ideal gear for this climb; I ended up at the second bulge with nothing that would fit the crack. Take a bunch of .5s, .75s, and 1s, but only a single 2, or two at the most. Yeah, yeah, make your own decisions about gear, don't trust the guidebook, etc, but if this crack takes 2.5 Friends, they must be pretty tight ones.

By AhK
Mar 11, 2012

Bring more .5 and .75 than recommended and save some for the bulge after the ledge. Definitely the hardest 10+ I've been on in the Creek.