Named after the Pixies song, this route provides great climbing, exposure, and altitude. The crux of this route is only 20 feet up the first pitch. It involves steep friction while traversing right. It is protected with bomber bolts and the fall is mellow. After the crux, the pitch climbs nearly straight up past 5.9 jugs and crimps to a two bolt anchor in a shallow chimney. The second pitch is a "4x4" pitch which involves climbing up and right via the path of least resistance to the bottom of a 5.6 flake. Clip a bolt and climb the flake and cracks to a two bolt anchor at a stance. Pitch three: Climb up and right to a chickenhead. Sling it and commit to a mantle. After the mantle climb past one bolt and chickenheads to the base of the slab that contains the routes Snow Queens and Ice Fairies and Thats Rebolting. Sling a bunch of chickenheads and climb out (right) toward the edge of the formation. Clip the bolt and climb up past bolts (5.9) through really clean granite arriving at a chain anchor at a stance. Note: This pitch intersects with Snow Queens and Ice Fairies. To stay on route, climb up and right staying near the edge. Pitch four: Climb along the edge past bolts, a #2 cam placement behind a flake, into a sea of dark chickenheads. Follow the bolts ending with an exciting finish at the anchor for The Gills. Rap the route with one (60M) rope. One rap from the Gills to a SUB ANCHOR hidden under a roof/dihedral west of the middle of pitch four, one rap to the chain anchor on top of pitch 3, one rap east to a big ledge, then walk east to a large chain anchor and rap one more time.
The route is located in the gulley below the fin. To find the start of the route, locate an orange piton and climb up and right of it past a bulge to a ledge. The first pitch to this climb starts about 25 feet off the ground. The approach has been free soloed and also roped up for. It is about 5.6 ish and exposed.
draws, slings, one #2 camalot, optional #0.0 metolius tcu for the sea of chickenheads.
|By Stevie Nacho|
Nov 25, 2012
The bolts on Snow Queens and Ice Fairies and Thats Rebolting have been replaced so all these routes now offer good climbing with modern protection in the exact spots as the first ascents. A good slab crag high in the sky.
May 3, 2013
First pitch should clean up with more ascents. Pitchs 3&4 are good.
What's the route directly below last rap chains?