The Waterfall 

A couple things to add to the description... Some of the routes on the left wall are longer than 100 feet. Spite and Malice for sure. Be careful when lowering. The Pinche Tribe dedicated a lot of time and money in late 90s, early 2000 to replace old and create new anchors. Many of these we left fixed biners on. Sort of wish I had a few of those back now. So if you get to the top of these routes, please leave the biners up there for future use. I know some of them disappeared, most likely by people who just didn't know the program.

For many of the harder lines on the right side we had a set of Lowe Balls on the FAs. Having a set or the equivelant may make them seem a lot more protectable. I am going to get on Fosters case and see if he can fill in a lot of blanks on that side. He has a better memory than I do...

I heart the Super Forks.

Had a great day at the Waterfall today despite finding an unfinished new route of ours stripped of gear, and our "work line" tied in knots... Please have some respect for those that go way out of our way to MAINTAIN, and ADD NEW ROUTES to this area... I really hope this was just a misjudgment on someones part, that doesn't realize that there are new routes going in up here all the time, and occasionally fixed lines and stashed gear will be encountered.

All I want to say is that my friends and I have spent literally thousands of man hours, and thousands of dollars creating what is a hands down, amazing crag by any standards, world wide for it's genre. It is both unique and cherished by many, and it just so happens to be in "our" back yard.

That's all I have for now, and if you want to send me a message by these actions- personally, I would sack up and try english first. It just makes more sense... I am not that hard to find.

And I would really like my Wild Country Ultralight wires back. Those particular pieces have a great sentimental value stretching back 10 years, and originating in the Gunks! Not to mention some 20+ First Ascents at the Waterfall! Seriously, sometimes I don't know....... I am always willing to forgive for misunderstandings, and I do hope that is the case here. Thank you. JJ

JJ, I'm sure I'll talk to you soon but I just wanted to speak up and say in this public venue that I find it quite disheartening that anyone that would frequent the Waterfall would demonstrate such lack of respect. I'm sure some online rabble rouser will try and make a statement about ethics, abandoned gear, or some other such nonsense, so let me try to head that off and say that if you're willing to climb a route that someone else has dedicated so much time and effort to you should recognize that such efforts are not completed in a day and to steal gear and tie ropes in knots is comparable to walking into an artists studio and destroying half painted canvases or smashing the unfinished marble block in a sculptors workshop. This is not a demonstration of ethics, more an expression of poor moral standing and selfish cowardice. To truly make a statement one should claim their actions and stand tall and confident in their views, rather than slink around behind false online monikers or anonymous theft and vandalism. Regardless of ones opinions on "bootied" gear I don't believe anyone could mistake a route in progress for stuck or abandoned gear. I for one find the theft of your gear deplorable and would like to use this online venue to thank you for all your hard work creating high quality, visionary, and highly enjoyable routes in multiple areas. I can only hope that this has been a misguided mistake and that the individual responsible will come forward and apologize. Again, JJ thanks for your hard work and dedication to widening the climbing opportunities in NAZ.
Dean

Thanks Dean... As I was thinking about the situation late saturday night, it dawned on me that whoever left this mess and callously swiped my gear must have had a really bad day, and probably an embarrassing one as well... The evidence does suggest that they tried to climb the route (A more than obvious work in progress!) and got to the wide section and didn't have the gear or the cajones to finish it. Then (I am guessing because of inexperience) they finagled their retreat via our work rope, instead of just leaving gear or a leaver biner behind... The evidence points more to this theory than any other. One way or the other, it is disrespectful and immature at the best, and I won't go into the worst.

IT IS IMPORTANT THAT FOLKS KNOW THAT THERE ARE STILL A LOT OF NEW ROUTES GOING IN AT THIS CRAG! You may encounter a fixed line now and again, as well as, stashed gear. If it is not yours, please don't fuck with it. It is as simple as that. Have some respect for yourself, and others..... Especially if those "others" are the ones who replaced 90% of the old trashy anchors, and continue to put up classic routes out of our love for the game.

And, if "you" ever come across this post, I really want my wires back because of previously mentioned factors. Sometimes when a particular piece of gear has saved your life, it finds a place in your heart. I am not hard to find, and you could leave them at Vertical Relief with my name of them, and they would let me know. Thank you, JJ

Hey Jeremy and Crew! What a job you do as caretakers of such an amazing resource. I often wondered what the 'next generation' would do with this scarcely realized/appreciated destination. Though I haven't been there in years, it is still fresh in my mind.

Nice picture of climber on Terminator here at Mtn Project. I can guess the thoughts going through the leader's head...

Lastly, what a surprise to see a nice high rez shot of someone sending Super Chronic in the climbing mag this month. The Waterfall hits the BIG TIME. I remember watching the boyz "prep" themselves before FA of an aptly-named The Chronic a long time ago...

I am psyched to get back for a visit sometime and see what you guys have done!

This place looks absolutely gorgeous. Sorry to read about the stuff getting lifted. As someone who also does FAs, I know how it is sometimes completely impractical not to sometimes leave fixed ropes up or stash gear. It is usually not at all a case of being disrespectful to an area or other users or a case of laziness. There is absolutely no excuse for somebody to steal stuff like that.
I hope some time to be able to visit this area. The lines look superb and the setting amazing.

copy of MP topos/descriptions left at the base of Lord Humongous for everyone to use.

As of 4/1/12, the copies of mp topos are mia. We scoped out the cliff base left to right to no avail.

APPROACH beta. From the parking pullout head right (downstream) a bit and drop down a nice gully. After boulder hopping across the creek, head left (upstream) passing a sucker trail. A bit further is a rounded rock wall split by a tree/root system. The stairmaster approach begins here up a rock filled gully. Along the approach a large sandstone formation splits the gully. Take the narrow vegetated right fork.

Hi all,

Can someone let me know when the wall is in the sun/shade during the summer? Is it possible to climb some/any sections of the wall in hotter weather?

Thanks!

Hey Tim, The left wall gets morning sun, afternoon shade, and vice versa for the right. Double Cluthing is pretty much sun all the time. We've climbed there through the summer, though the mornings were very early and we were done by 1:00 in the afternoon...

Great! Thanks for the info JJ and the timely response.

Congratulations to Joel Unema for sending every route on the four major walls of the Waterfall Area! As far as I know he is the first to do so. You're making your people proud Joel.