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The Watchtower

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Watchtower Cove 
Watchtower Main 
Watchtower Proper 
Watchtower Tiers 

The Watchtower  

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Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Eric Jacobsen on Mar 27, 2003
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The Watchtower is the most popular crag in Ferguson and is the first one you come to. Most routes are trad with a few good sport routes. The wall is steep with horizontal seams. Most routes have good anchors for a single-rope descent, and a few have a steep walk-off to the west. I've set up Extreme Unction as a top-rope by rapping down from the top of Watchtower Proper which sits above Watchtower, but it's a big hassle.

The wall is rather long and quite large. It has been broken up into four sections, The Main Wall, The Watchtower Proper, The Tiers, and The Cove in an attempt to help navigate.

Getting There 

This is the first crag you will come to after hiking 15-20 minutes up the canyon from the trailhead on Timberline Drive. The Watchtower wall comes right down into the stream so you may have to hop some rocks to keep your feet dry when the stream is high. The steep gully on the right (west) end that you come to first is the walk-off for some of the first routes. The routes are numbered west to east along the wall.

Climbing Season

Weather station 0.3 miles from here

44 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',19],['2 Stars',18],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',1]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Watchtower:
The Confessional   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   Watchtower Main
Inner Light   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     TR, 1 pitch, 50'   Watchtower Main
Hellfire Variation   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   Watchtower Main
Imperial   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Watchtower Tiers
Fire and Brimstone   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Watchtower Main
Extreme Unction   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   Watchtower Main
Total X   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Watchtower Main
Uncensored Society   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Watchtower Tiers
Conflict   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 90'   Watchtower Tiers
Bats in the Belfry    5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   Watchtower Proper
Fortress   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   Watchtower Main
Dehumanized   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Watchtower Tiers
Drunk Punk Oi   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Watchtower Tiers
Steel Reserve   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Watchtower Tiers
Dark Rose   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Watchtower Main
Total Ramon   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Watchtower Tiers
Lipstick on a Pig   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Watchtower Proper
Fishlips   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, 50'   Watchtower Main
Scratchin' for the Loomer   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Watchtower Tiers
Condor   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Watchtower Tiers
Browse More Classics in The Watchtower

Featured Route For The Watchtower
The thin face and blunted arete of Fishlips.

Fishlips 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Watchtower Main
Begin just right of Extreme Unction and climb the steep arete and face passing two bolts. After the second bolt continue up the arete passing some good gear placements to the top. The typical belay is the same for Extreme Unction.(A good variation is to climb Fishlips and after the second bolt, after getting established on the arete, finish on the roof section of Extreme Unction.)...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

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