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The Wasteland

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Fire Sermon, The T,S 
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The Wasteland 


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Administrators: Greg Opland, James DeRoussel, JJ Schlick, Hendrixson, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Mike on May 17, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Wasteland Dome (foregroud) and Entrance Dome (rear...

Description 

A 600' semi-detached pinnacle between Entrance Dome and Out-of-Towners dome in the East Stronghold.


Getting There 

While driving into the East Stronghold, turn right on a dirt road just after entering the National Forest boundary, directly after a cattleguard. There will also be a sign (unrelated to The Wasteland) on the right side of the road at the turn-off. Take the dirt road for about 100 yds or so and take the obvious left turn for a very short ways to the parking area. If you miss this last left turn, the dirt road will take you to Batline Dome before ending. Once at the trailhead, take the somewhat braided trails roughly north up a gentle drainage until the trails converge somewhat and head roughly west up a steeper drainage. Follow this just past Entrance dome until a steep drainage enters from the right (roughly north) and scramble up this drainage to the base of The Wasteland.


3 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',2],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Wasteland:
The Wasteland   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 6 pitches, 600'   
Browse More Classics in The Wasteland

Featured Route For The Wasteland
This is The Wasteland as it appears from about halfway up the last drainage.  The route begins behind the trees on the left side, just left of the right-leaning crack

The Wasteland 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  AZ : Cochise Stronghold : ... : The Wasteland
A great climb. Make sure you are comfortable slinging chickenheads & plates and belaying off of slung chickenheads before attempting this route. P1: Climb the face up and left to a small arch (usually with webbing on it), sling the arch, then head up and right to a belay ledge. P2: Traverse right to the crack/groove and follow it up to a nice belay below short chimney. P3: Climb up and left through the chimney and exit left on top of the small tower, then step across chimney to the main wall...[more]   Browse More Classics in AZ

Photos of The Wasteland Slideshow Add Photo
Vijay Singh ending pitch four
Vijay Singh ending pitch four
9/11/10 Shawn Swenson on approach to Wasteland.
9/11/10 Shawn Swenson on approach to Wasteland.
Jason Schrack works through the chimney on pitch 3.
Jason Schrack works through the chimney on pitch 3...
The views from The Wasteland are fantastic! We had the climb/area all to ourselves on a warm, and sunny December day. It was our first climb in the Stronghold; passing through on our road trip, and to test the waters for the next trip out. The eastside was beautiful, and peaceful.
The views from The Wasteland are fantastic! We had...
kyle kent belays from chickenheads on Wasteland.
kyle kent belays from chickenheads on Wasteland.
The upper part of the Wastelands descent.
The upper part of the Wastelands descent.
Comments on The Wasteland Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 17, 2014
By BenJamN
Feb 3, 2010

Whats the lowdown on all the new bolted lines around the wasteland route??? Also this crag should be called "Squid Dome" as the cliff looks much like the mollusk when viewed from the drainage...

By Scott Sellers
Sep 16, 2010

Sept 11 2010 I reached the top of pitch 1 about 9am, full sun and already warm on the rock. After setting 3 pieces in the crack on the left side of the ledge I had just started to tie the anchor figure 8 when yellow jackets began emerging from a hole holding my top piece, a nice #10 stopper. Long story..I managed to kill 6 including the 4 that stung me before my partner climbed up to a tree a little higher up and belayed me up. They followed us up to the tree, we bailed and they followed us down. Planning on returning next month, great looking route!

Looking up at Wasteland 9/11/10
Looking up at Wasteland 9/11/10

By Daryl Allan
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Sep 20, 2010

Thanks for the heads up and glad to hear you both made it down safe. Bummer to hear they moved into that belay spot. In hindsight, how well do you think it may have worked to belay from around the corner on the way up to 2nd anchor ledge?

By Scott Sellers
Sep 25, 2010

First time on the route for us, I did look to continue but had to consider I was out about 160ft on a 60m and the last 50ft or so had been runnout. I had heard from other climbing partners that there was some "interesting" moves at the start of the second. I quickly looked that way and only saw small gravely ledges with slim hands and no visiable pro in site. Added asking my second to cross paths with yellow jackets, fight/ no chance for flight mode kicked in. Gotta say it's a great looking route, can't wait to try again.

By DaveF
From: Durango, CO
Dec 23, 2010

Went up to climb The Wasteland and ended up climbing the bolted line up the left from the "Chimney" section. Any ideas out there on a name and grade? Super fun and I mean Super!!!! Great face climbing, airy, and warm.

By Steve Pulver
From: Tucson, AZ
Dec 26, 2010

DaveF, I think the first bolted line to the right of the start of Wasteland is called Teenage Wasteland. I think its supposed to be 10a, but not really sure.

By DaveF
From: Durango, CO
Dec 31, 2010

Thanks for the beta. We ended up heading straight up the face after the chimney pitch of Wasteland. I saw the bolts and figured it may be fun. It ended up being a really good time. I loved the exposure.

By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 2, 2011

If you would like a topo just PM me.

I put together an approach map here:

www.toofasttopos.com/googleearth/wasteland.html

By Daryl Allan
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Feb 3, 2011

Nice job Geir. Angel and I took some clippers up a couple months back and trimmed back quite a bit of agave points and other thorn - laden things that had taken over the path. It still could use tidying up in a few spots though.

By Toast with Butter
From: Tempe, AZ
Nov 14, 2011

i was also wondering about the bolted route left of the wasteland, the bolts looked great and it seemed 5.9ish on the 1.5 pitches of it i did

By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 14, 2011

That climb is called "the fire sermon."

By Erik Hanschen
Feb 17, 2014

Did The Wasteland today and had SO much fun. Great route! However, we did the alternative (north) descent and one rope got hopelessly stuck on the last rappel. If anybody gets to it before I do, I'm happy to pick it up from you and provide due compensation (Of course you can keep it if you so choose, I did abandon it...). It's a 8 mm gray Edelrid half rope.

At the same time, we found a double length BD dyneema; if it's yours, PM me, I won't use it.

Thanks!