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The Wasp 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 95'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Topher Donahue
Season: Spring, Summer afternoons, Fall
Page Views: 11,757
Submitted By: Alex Shainman on Mar 1, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
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Alex on the Wasp!

Description 

The Wasp may be THE best single pitch, trad, granite route of its style and difficulty in Colorado! There are a couple single-pitch routes in CO that come close, but this is a unique gem combining great rock, super aesthetic moves, and great pro. In my opinion, California fine-grained granite has always catered to more memorable crack pitches than almost anywhere in CO, except for this very spot (and parts of the Platte).

A word about ratings…I had heard a couple comments from climbers who felt that The Wasp does not warrant a 13a rating, and to be honest, neither did I. But...I did not onsight it, and I completely sieged the route by fully inspecting gear placements and moves on rappel. How can anyone accurately rate a climb? It is so subjective and with any climb there will always be many factors that will obviously affect the perception of difficulty. At the time I redpointed this route, I knew a couple climbers who came close but only 2 climbers who had onsighted it, and I am assuming each was a true onsight. To onsight the Wasp without ANY prior knowledge of the moves OR the gear placements is an awesome accomplishment. En route, there are some cryptic sections and a couple of moves where you must bear down, but in general the climbing is more cerebral, and there are no “stopper” crux moves. On the other hand, the gear requires some thought in a few placements, but as a whole the route protects beautifully. Every climb is different. The Wasp was for me “easy to learn”. I believe this would be the same for most. Nonetheless, it is a worthy and challenging climb whatever you decide to personally rate it.

Location 

Located on the upper tier of ROA between Greensleeves and a Tommy Caldwell 13- fully bolted route (which is left of a Topher D. torturous corner route) is The Wasp. Start at a flake that becomes a straight in crack. Near the middle, the route zigs left and zags right to a rest before the last leftward stretch to the top and the bolted anchor.

Protection 

Bolted anchor. One pin (last piece). Assortment of standard and "offset" nuts through the size range but mostly in the med range. Double cams from Metolious #0 TCU through flexy WC Friends #2.5 (three 1.5 Friends). Runners including double-length. Double rope technique could be helpful due to the zig-zagging nature of the line.


Photos of The Wasp Slideshow Add Photo
Cody Scarpella on The Wasp.
Cody Scarpella on The Wasp.
Cody Scarpella on The Wasp.
Cody Scarpella on The Wasp.
Cody Scarpella on "The Wasp".
Cody Scarpella on "The Wasp".
Cody Scarpella on "The Wasp".
Cody Scarpella on "The Wasp".

Comments on The Wasp Add Comment
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By Joe Collins
Jun 29, 2007
rating: 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b

A classic and memorable pitch of "hard" trad. Well-protected throughout, but the gear at the crux requires a bit of tinkering to get it right. Comparing to another local testpiece of similar grade, it is not as hard as The Evictor, but YMMV.
By Cassidy Hill
Jul 7, 2008

No single move as hard as the crux on Evictor, but overall a more demanding route both mentally and physically. This route is super technical, and it stays on you until you clip the anchor. Perfect rock in a perfect setting rock climbing doesn't get much better than this.
By furrymurry
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 14, 2008
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

Amazing route! Don't know why you would want to mess with doubles though, a single rope is fine.
By Dusty
From: Fort Collins
Oct 7, 2008
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

Spectacular route. Great movement, good gear, perfect location, and a desperate mantle to finish it up.
By DonP
Jan 8, 2009

For some video beta check out Heidi Wirtz's segments throughout Front Range Freaks, and don't forget to vote for Heidi for the Inspiring Soles Award!
By Ol' Toby
From: WA
Nov 22, 2010
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

Without a doubt, one of the best pitches I've done.

While there are some good rests and no single stopper move, the pump stays on you.

4 stars for movement, aesthetics, and setting.
By Scott Bennett
Jun 9, 2011

One of the best pitches I've ever done. Anywhere.
By Casey McTaggart
From: boulder, co
Apr 12, 2013

Anyone been up there this year and know about the snow/approach/etc?
By WadeM
Jun 16, 2014

No move felt harder than the dihedral pitch on Vertigo. Like other people have said: no stopper crux, but the pump factor builds up quick.
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Jul 16, 2014
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

There is currently an RP and 0.3 Camalot fixed below the crux. Awesome route.