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The Wasp

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Glacial Obsession S 
Glacial Recession S 
Green Hornet S 
Magic Helmet S 
Radidudical S 
Straight Flush T 
Super Knat S 
Tillite Delight S 
Wasp, The S 
Yellow Jacket S 

The Wasp  


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Location: 40.2665, -111.625 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 5,013
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Granger on Aug 1, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Rock Canyon mouth - Trilogy Gully 1. Bad Bananas ...

Description 

Interesting spire of quartzite on the north side of the mouth of Rock Canyon. It's in the same gully you use to get to Trilogy Buttress. Not very busy, so the rock's not polished. The slope along the base of the wall is about a 45 degree angle, so be careful not to knock too much rock down on your friends as you scramble up.

Also, FYI, if you continue up the slope past The Wasp, and stay to the right, there's a cool little crevice to play in. You can stem up into a hole in a ceiling which will put you back into the main gully. If it wasn't such a loose climb to get to it, it would be a really cool bouldering problem to play in. You can see the spot in the picture of Trilogy Gully below; it's the really dark spot straight above the spot marked as The Wasp.

Getting There 

On the north side of the canyon mouth, use the trail immediately east of the water tank. Pass the first fork (where, if you went left, you'd go to Super Bowl Wall) continuing straight up the gully.

When you get near the base of The Wasp, there will be a steep scree to your left that you can follow around to the west side. (It's easier to go this way than along the dark rock that separates Super Bowl from The Wasp.)

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.7 miles from here

10 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',0],['5.9',2],['5.10',4],['5.11',3],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Wasp:
Tillite Delight   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 25'   
Magic Helmet   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Radidudical   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Browse More Classics in The Wasp

Featured Route For The Wasp
Ben getting all horizontal under the roof.

Radidudical 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : The Wasp
Follow two bolts up to the roof. Find the jugs at the lip and clip the bolt above the lip. The next move is the crux: a deadpoint lunge to a big jug. Once you pull the move, get your feet up and find a key horizontal flake/knob for your left hand to steady yourself, clip the bolt, and keep climbing on moderate terrain past one more bolt to the top....[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of The Wasp Slideshow Add Photo
The Wasp <br /> <br />1. Yellow Jacket  5.11b <br />2. The Wasp  5.11a <br />3. Green Hornet  5.11b <br />4. The Knat  5.9
BETA PHOTO: The Wasp 1. Yellow Jacket 5.11b 2. The Wasp 5.1...
<em>The Wasp</em> before the rockfall (23 Apr 2008).
BETA PHOTO: The Wasp before the rockfall (23 Apr 2008).
The lower, tillite, southeast-facing part of The Wasp. <br />8 <a href='/v/tillite-delight/106135382'>Tillite Delight</a> 5.9 <br />9 Glacial Recession 5.10d <br />10 <a href='/v/glacial-obsession/106135387'>Glacial Obsession</a> 5.10b
BETA PHOTO: The lower, tillite, southeast-facing part of The W...
The middle, southeast-facing part of <em><a href='/v/the-wasp/105846317'>The Wasp</a></em>: <em>The Throne</em>. <br />5 <a href='/v/straight-flush/106130426'>Straight Flush</a> 5.7 <br />6 <a href='/v/magic-helmet/106126318'>Magic Helmet</a> 5.10a <br />7 <a href='/v/radidudical/106141322'>Radidudical</a> 5.10c
BETA PHOTO: The middle, southeast-facing part of The Wasp: The...
A simple side-pull on Magic Helmet will take you to the top once you use the jug to the right of the  second bolt.  Trust the flake and pull.
BETA PHOTO: A simple side-pull on Magic Helmet will take you t...
<em>The Wasp</em> after the rockfall (30 May 2010).
BETA PHOTO: The Wasp after the rockfall (30 May 2010).

Comments on The Wasp Add Comment
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By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
May 29, 2010
CONDITION REPORT 
There was recently a large rockfall above the tillite routes (the corner to the left of Magic Helmet came down). It left large rocks and boulders strewn on top of the tillite outcropping (as well as below).

It might be a bit dangerous below the outcropping for a while.