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Warning, The 

The Warning 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jonathan Garlough & Lincoln Tetherly
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 166
Submitted By: chinos on May 7, 2012
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Description 

The Warning climbs on the "Elephants Head Buttress" located at the left end of the big wall sections. The rock is mostly good, but sections of brief choss are encountered on moderate terrain.

ALL BOLTS WERE PLACED FREE ON LEAD BY HAND.

P1: Start under the Elephants Head Buttress. Scramble up a series of ledges for 40' to a bolt. (the slab to the right will be the start when it's dry). Climb up the face placing gear in cracks and pull a bulge to a bolt. Move right into the crack system and follow it to a ledge with a 2 bolt anchor. 120' 5.8+ PG-13.

P2: Climb up the slab off the anchor to a ledge (bolt). Continue up the slab and past a choss ban on easy terrain and move up past the tree ledge to a gear belay in the corner. 55' 5.9 R

P3: Follow the awesome corner up and right placing gear to a bolt. Run it out up the rest of the corner to a ledge. Move up and right on some chossy ledges to a layback crack/flake. Finish up to the tree ledge with a tree anchor. 115' 5.10 R


Location 

The Elephants Head Buttress


Protection 

Standard Rack and Bolts



Comments on The Warning Add Comment
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By john strand
From: southern colo
May 8, 2012

COOL... so much to do.

By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
May 8, 2012

Great job guys. On lead, ground up. Get'r done.
-Jon Howard