The Warning  5.10 R

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Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet Consensus:  5.10 [details] FA:  Jonathan Garlough & Lincoln Tetherly New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  chinos on May 7, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

The Warning climbs on the "Elephants Head Buttress" located at the left end of the big wall sections. The rock is mostly good, but sections of brief choss are encountered on moderate terrain.

ALL BOLTS WERE PLACED FREE ON LEAD BY HAND.

P1: Start under the Elephants Head Buttress. Scramble up a series of ledges for 40' to a bolt. (the slab to the right will be the start when it's dry). Climb up the face placing gear in cracks and pull a bulge to a bolt. Move right into the crack system and follow it to a ledge with a 2 bolt anchor. 120' 5.8+ PG-13.

P2: Climb up the slab off the anchor to a ledge (bolt). Continue up the slab and past a choss ban on easy terrain and move up past the tree ledge to a gear belay in the corner. 55' 5.9 R

P3: Follow the awesome corner up and right placing gear to a bolt. Run it out up the rest of the corner to a ledge. Move up and right on some chossy ledges to a layback crack/flake. Finish up to the tree ledge with a tree anchor. 115' 5.10 R

Location 

The Elephants Head Buttress

Protection 

Standard Rack and Bolts