|The Approach Boulder
Start with both hands on a very large shelf with a high left foot. Pull on and trend up and right on the shelf which eventually turns into a large block hold. Move left up to a big edge and go for the jug on top.
Per Chris McNeil: Start with matched hands on a thin rail at face level. Move your left heel up on the left arete, and go for the right hand pull ("The Ear" hence the name). Press it out and top out.
Looking at the entrance boulder (aka Approach Boulder) from the trail, this nice little problem is on the left side of the boulder. The starting hold should be obvious.
Per Chris McNeil: This is on the back right side of the block as you're looking at it from the highway.
|Comments on The Warm Up aka The Ear
From: The Shrew, MA
Apr 28, 2010
Is this the same as the Orange Peel problem?
May 13, 2010
Yes, but I am pretty sure the name is not Orange Peel. Orange Peel is a short route over past the Pink Floyd Wall.
|By Anthony Pizzo|
Oct 23, 2011
This is actually called The Ear (via the right side crimp that is key).