The Warlock as seen from the rim of Hell Roaring C...
The Warlock is a proud, freestanding, wingate tower on the south side of Hell Roaring Canyon. At 350 feet, this is one of the bigger towers in the Moab area and should not be missed by those who enjoy this type of remote, adventure climbing.
It was first climbed by Ron Olevsky, Dave Mondeau, and Dale Kruse in April of 1985. Since then, only two lines are known to have been added. Mike Pennings and Dave Medara climbed a new route on the sw face in ‘95 and Matt, Sam and I added another line in ‘07.
A worthy weekend for the tower baggers out there would be to camp on the rim and climb all three towers in the area. If you were fast, you could climb them all in a day.
This route follows the dihedral system on the sw corner of the tower. A strong party could easily get the first free ascent. Pitch One - Climb up and across a huge fallen block to the base of an obvious chimney formed by another huge block and the tower. Continue up the chimney to a large belay ledge and a two bolt anchor. There is little to no protection on this pitch but it is fairly easy. 5.8 PG13Pitch Two. This is a long pitch. Climb the sandy crack in the corner up and through a bombay chim...[more]Browse More Classics in UT
Marco Cornacchione was able to free climb "Dude, That's Not Funny" back on Oct.26, 1997. We nicknamed that trip the "cruel crusade" because we were constantly getting bouted by the weather--snow, wind and cold the whole time, except for the clear and cold day that we climbed this route. On the previous chilly day, after we climbed the Caldron, I got on the first pitch of "Dude" and checked out whether it could go free or not. A huge wedge-shaped block guarded the crux. We decided to add a bolt, aid past the block, then kick it out from above (the FA party had boldly aided through this section w/o a bolt). We returned the next day, which was clear but very slow to warm up. I led the first pitch free, which was thin fingers to hands, at about 5.12-. Next, Marco fired the second pitch, an overhanging squeeze-to-offwidth nightmare, in perfect style (again,about 5.12-). I found this incredibly hard on TR, and required tension to get through it. The remaining two pitches weren't nearly as hard (5.10 and 5.7). We summited, rappelled through the bowels of the tower, then made the exhausting jug to the rim carrying tons of gear. Our plans to be back in Boulder for work the next day were quickly dashed, as it was dark by the time we reached the truck, and we were in no shape for a long drive. Back in Boulder the storm had dumped feet of snow. The "cruel crusade" was miserable for most of its duration, but in the end it was an adventure I won't forget.