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This is the awesome triple-tiered tower that crowns the end of the ridge. It is home to some of the longer, harder routes of the Needles such as The Romantic Warrior and Sea of Tranquility. A few short classics like the Howling and the Titantic are also located here. Climbs go up all sides of the Warlock, and your approach may vary depending on where you want to climb.
Climbs on the upper North, West, and East faces are accessed via the main trail. Climbs that begin on the lower reaches of the Warlock can be accessed from this point as well (via rappels), or by decending down between the Sorcerer and Witch and hiking all the way around, or by approaching from Voodoo Dome (separate trailhead). I'm not sure which way is the most expedient...
13 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in The Warlock
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Warlock:
Imaginary Voyage 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c Trad, 4 pitches, 500'
South Face 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a PG13 Trad, 8 pitches, 800'
The Howling 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a PG13 Trad, Sport, 2 pitches
The Spell 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b Trad, 2 pitches, 300'
Ghostbumps 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c Trad, Sport, 2 pitches
Sea of Tranquility 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII E4 6a PG13 Trad, 5 pitches
Romantic Warrior 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b Trad, 9 pitches
Featured Route For The Warlock
Planet Waves 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a PG13 CA : The Needles / Kern River : ... : The Warlock
Lieback, stem & face climb up the attractive left facing, left arching corner. Where the arch gets thin & disappears, step left to a bolted belay. The infrequently done 2nd pitch, ascends past 1 bolt(5.10+) to a huge runout to easier climbing, to join the S Crack or South Face route which can be followed to the top....[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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