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This is the awesome triple-tiered tower that crowns the end of the ridge. It is home to some of the longer, harder routes of the Needles such as The Romantic Warrior and Sea of Tranquility. A few short classics like the Howling and the Titantic are also located here. Climbs go up all sides of the Warlock, and your approach may vary depending on where you want to climb.
Climbs on the upper North, West, and East faces are accessed via the main trail. Climbs that begin on the lower reaches of the Warlock can be accessed from this point as well (via rappels), or by decending down between the Sorcerer and Witch and hiking all the way around, or by approaching from Voodoo Dome (separate trailhead). I'm not sure which way is the most expedient...
13 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in The Warlock
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Warlock:
Imaginary Voyage 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c Trad, 4 pitches, 500'
The Sarcophagus 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
South Face 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a PG13 Trad, 8 pitches, 800'
The Howling 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a PG13 Trad, Sport, 2 pitches
The Spell 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b Trad, 2 pitches, 300'
Flying Warlocks 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Dragon's Back 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Ghostbumps 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c Trad, Sport, 2 pitches
Planet Waves 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a PG13 Trad, 2 pitches, 300'
Sea of Tranquility 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII E4 6a PG13 Trad, 5 pitches
Romantic Warrior 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b Trad, 9 pitches
The Titanic 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b Trad, 1 pitch, 200'
Featured Route For The Warlock
Romantic Warrior 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b CA : The Needles / Kern River : ... : The Warlock
Romantic Warrior is considered by many to be the crown jewel of the needles. Its long, steep, hard, and by most standards, perfect. The climbing is thin and technical, with thought provoking cruxes. Romantic Warrior boasts some of the best corner pitches in the country. P1-10a: Probably the least spectacular pitch of the climb, start up a greasy corner off a ledge, and continue up into the prominent corner. Continue up 5.7 to a 2 bolt belay on the right wall.P2-5.7: "The Living Corner" Continue ...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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