The Warlock from White Punks on Dope.
This is the awesome triple-tiered tower that crowns the end of the ridge. It is home to some of the longer, harder routes of the Needles such as The Romantic Warrior and Sea of Tranquility. A few short classics like the Howling and the Titantic are also located here. Climbs go up all sides of the Warlock, and your approach may vary depending on where you want to climb.
Decent from the summit involves rapping (two ropes) to the North.
Climbs on the upper North, West, and East faces are accessed via the main trail. Climbs that begin on the lower reaches of the Warlock can be accessed from this point as well (via rappels), or by decending down between the Sorcerer and Witch and hiking all the way around, or by approaching from Voodoo Dome (separate trailhead). I'm not sure which way is the most expedient...
Weather station 10.1 miles from here
13 Total Routes
['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in The Warlock
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Warlock:
South Face 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
PG13 Trad, 8 pitches, 800'
The Howling 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
PG13 Trad, Sport, 2 pitches
The Spell 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 2 pitches, 300'
Ghostbumps 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad, Sport, 2 pitches
Featured Route For The Warlock
Romantic Warrior 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b CA
: Southern Sierra
: ... : The Warlock
Romantic Warrior is considered by many to be the crown jewel of the needles. Its long, steep, hard, and by most standards, perfect. The climbing is thin and technical, with thought provoking cruxes. Romantic Warrior boasts some of the best corner pitches in the country. P1-10a: Probably the least spectacular pitch of the climb, start up a greasy corner off a ledge, and continue up into the prominent corner. Continue up 5.7 to a 2 bolt belay on the right wall.P2-5.7: "The Living Corner" Continue ...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
View west from the last pitch of Imaginary Voyage.
From: Las Vegas
Jul 26, 2011
We were able to rappel down the northeast face using a single 60m rope.
Rap 1 - a short rap (80') down the summit block from the eastern most chains. Rap past an anchor to a second anchor on a big ledge (approximately 50' right of the last pitch of Imaginary Voyage). There is a rope connecting the upper and lower anchors for some reason.
Rap 2 - Rap a FULL 100' down and right. Just over the ridge is a set of anchors that you will have to reach down and clip in with a 60m rope. Kind of sketchy. I'm not sure why the anchor wasn't installed 5' up higher.
Rap 3 - Rap a 100' down and angling slightly left to reach the ground.
By Matthew Fienup
From: Ventura, CA
Dec 11, 2012
For a rappel-topo and interesting historical notes, visit here