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The Warlock

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Dragon's Back T 
Flying Warlocks T 
Ghostbumps T,S 
Howling, The T,S 
Imaginary Voyage T 
Planet Waves T 
Romantic Warrior T 
Sarcophagus, The T 
Sea of Tranquility T 
South Face T 
Spell, The T 
Titanic, The T 
Unknown T,S 

The Warlock 


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Location: 36.10666, -118.47894 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 125,036
Administrators: Matthew Fienup, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Jun 18, 2006
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The Warlock from White Punks on Dope.

Description 

This is the awesome triple-tiered tower that crowns the end of the ridge. It is home to some of the longer, harder routes of the Needles such as The Romantic Warrior and Sea of Tranquility. A few short classics like the Howling and the Titantic are also located here. Climbs go up all sides of the Warlock, and your approach may vary depending on where you want to climb.

Decent from the summit involves rapping (two ropes) to the North.


Getting There 

Climbs on the upper North, West, and East faces are accessed via the main trail. Climbs that begin on the lower reaches of the Warlock can be accessed from this point as well (via rappels), or by decending down between the Sorcerer and Witch and hiking all the way around, or by approaching from Voodoo Dome (separate trailhead). I'm not sure which way is the most expedient...


13 Total Routes


['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',3],['5.10',5],['5.11',3],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Warlock:
Imaginary Voyage   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Trad, 4 pitches, 500'   
South Face   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13     Trad, 8 pitches, 800'   
The Howling   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches   
The Spell   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   
Ghostbumps   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches   
Sea of Tranquility   5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13     Trad, 5 pitches   
Romantic Warrior   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Trad, 9 pitches   
Browse More Classics in The Warlock

Featured Route For The Warlock
George following "The Book of Deception"

Romantic Warrior 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b  CA : Southern Sierra : ... : The Warlock
Romantic Warrior is considered by many to be the crown jewel of the needles. Its long, steep, hard, and by most standards, perfect. The climbing is thin and technical, with thought provoking cruxes. Romantic Warrior boasts some of the best corner pitches in the country. P1-10a: Probably the least spectacular pitch of the climb, start up a greasy corner off a ledge, and continue up into the prominent corner. Continue up 5.7 to a 2 bolt belay on the right wall.P2-5.7: "The Living Corner" Continue ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of The Warlock Slideshow Add Photo
View west from the last pitch of Imaginary Voyage.
View west from the last pitch of Imaginary Voyage.
Comments on The Warlock Add Comment
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By sqwirll
From: Las Vegas
Jul 26, 2011

We were able to rappel down the northeast face using a single 60m rope.

Rap 1 - a short rap (80') down the summit block from the eastern most chains. Rap past an anchor to a second anchor on a big ledge (approximately 50' right of the last pitch of Imaginary Voyage). There is a rope connecting the upper and lower anchors for some reason.

Rap 2 - Rap a FULL 100' down and right. Just over the ridge is a set of anchors that you will have to reach down and clip in with a 60m rope. Kind of sketchy. I'm not sure why the anchor wasn't installed 5' up higher.

Rap 3 - Rap a 100' down and angling slightly left to reach the ground.

By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Dec 11, 2012

For a rappel-topo and interesting historical notes, visit here