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Wanker Rail, The S 

The Wanker Rail 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Cox, Crawley, Bloom, Jones
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 327
Submitted By: Colin Cox on Nov 3, 2011

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Abel Jones finding holds on a quick ascent of the ...


Climb a nice 5.10 start, beginning with an interesting move before the first clip. Approach the Wanker Rail with a devious sequence of hand switches on the arete, avoiding the urge to pull up and right into Man For the Job. This section may feel contrived, but the Rail needed to be climbed. Clip the crux bolt and stay low on good feet and small crimps, then creep up left on the Wanker Rail with some hidden holds way out left. Pimp the rail past another bolt to a ledge, finish up the slabby dihedral.


Starts just left of Stepchild.


7 bolts

Photos of The Wanker Rail Slideshow Add Photo
The Wanker Rail getting it's F.A. on a cool November afternoon, 2011. Photo by Crawley.
The Wanker Rail getting it's F.A. on a cool Novemb...
Another FA shot.  Such a fun Line!
Another FA shot. Such a fun Line!
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