2014 Update: Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and all seasonal raptor closure areas on U.S. Forest Service land will be re-opened August 1, 2014 for climbing.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
This small, but steep, granite crag currently has three quality sport routes.
Although some of the rock tends to be crumbly, the routes are generally high quality climbing on good granite. The routes are well equipped with bomber bolts and excellent anchors. A single rope and 10-11 draws will get you back to the ground.
The climbing on this crag is both steep and funky, with the two right most routes having remarkably different climbing from one another despite being 20 feet apart.
With after noon shade, this Southeast-facing cliff is worth visiting on a hot day. Together with its immediate neighbor Bitty Buttress, there are many high quality routes of all grades in this area.
To get to The Wall of Voodoo, one can approach via the directions described for Bitty Buttress or via the route described below.
The Wall of Voodoo is a small crag located beneath the Bitty Buttress, one of the Eastern-most formations of the greater Blob Rock Massif. Start hiking the climber's trail that begins at a pullout on the North side of the canyon, about 25m west of the pullout to Cob Rock. This is the preferred parking and approach trail to Blob Rock.
After about 50 yards, where the trail gains a small bench and then heads uphill again, go straight East instead. Contour your way down canyon for about 50 yards, till you find the well beaten climber's trail that parallels the Canyon Road along the top edge of the road cut. Follow this trail to the Base of Bitty Buttress. From the Base of Bitty Buttress, descend the Gully to the East of The Wall of Voodoo cliff below, until the bolted routes come into view. Descend all routes from fixed anchors.
Suffering Succotash climbs up the steep corner on the right side of The Wall of Voodoo, 15 to the right of the excellent jug fest, Porch Monkey, 12a/b.Although the initial 20 feet is slightly chossy, the business on this route is steep and funky, on good rock.Rolofson's guide gives this route a 12a/b rating; however, it is really about 5.11d....[more]Browse More Classics in CO
After further investigation, I have discovered that the shortest and easiest approach to The Wall of Voodoo is via the large gully that is visible on the North side of the canyon, just down the road from the Cob Rock parking area.
The faint trail that goes up this gully is relatively good and is not the trundle hazard that I warned against in my initial description of how to approach this cliff.
To get there:Park at the Cob Rock parking area. Walk across and down the road for 200 feet before heading up a faint trail, up the large obvious gully, directly below the Wall of Voodoo. The bolted routes will come into view on your left after hiking up this gully for about 500 ft.
Visited this crag for the first time today and came in from above. The gully is filled with loose rock, possibly worse than it has been in the past due to last month's flood. If you approach directly up the gully, please be mindful of the road immediately below.