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The Wait of the World
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British A3
Avg: 3.5 from 4
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 600 ft (182 m), 6 pitches, Grade VI |
| FA: | Steve Bartlett, Chip Wilson, spring 1995 |
| Page Views: | 2,502 total · 20/month |
| Shared By: | Steve Bartlett on Jan 27, 2014 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
Start near the right (east) end of the expansive south face, on a rib just left of a large, deep hollow. Look for two bolts to start.
1. From the bolts head up and left to a nice crack on the arete. Work up this. Ease past a closet-size, barely-attached block with care. Thinner nailing ends at a 3-bolt belay (A3, 80').
2. Thin seams lead up and right to a bold ladder with occasional hooking. End at a nice ledge (A3, 80').
3. Climb a flake system at the left end of the ledge, past one bolt, to a shallow dihedral. Up this to a bolted belay under a triangular roof (A2+, 80').
4. Over the roof to a splitter, one-inch crack. Romp up this to a bolted, hanging belay (A2, 120').
5. Move up and left into an easy dihedral to a bolt. Tension left to a shallow groove, from which hooking on broken crockery gets one over the caprock to, finally, a big comfy ledge (A2+, 80').
6. Walk the belay 30 feet right (to a 3-bolt rap station) then scamper up a 5.8 chimney to the summit.
The bolt on pitch 3 was where the decision to rope-solo a new route in such a remote location in February/March began to seem not such a great idea and I retreated, eventually returning with a partner. Still bugs me, placing that bolt, there's a placement there.
1. From the bolts head up and left to a nice crack on the arete. Work up this. Ease past a closet-size, barely-attached block with care. Thinner nailing ends at a 3-bolt belay (A3, 80').
2. Thin seams lead up and right to a bold ladder with occasional hooking. End at a nice ledge (A3, 80').
3. Climb a flake system at the left end of the ledge, past one bolt, to a shallow dihedral. Up this to a bolted belay under a triangular roof (A2+, 80').
4. Over the roof to a splitter, one-inch crack. Romp up this to a bolted, hanging belay (A2, 120').
5. Move up and left into an easy dihedral to a bolt. Tension left to a shallow groove, from which hooking on broken crockery gets one over the caprock to, finally, a big comfy ledge (A2+, 80').
6. Walk the belay 30 feet right (to a 3-bolt rap station) then scamper up a 5.8 chimney to the summit.
The bolt on pitch 3 was where the decision to rope-solo a new route in such a remote location in February/March began to seem not such a great idea and I retreated, eventually returning with a partner. Still bugs me, placing that bolt, there's a placement there.
Location
This is on the south side of the formation. The route goes to the large, main summit. There's still a drop off that prevent easy (non-5th class) access from above. Tony Wilson and Russell Hooper added another route up the north side but I'm not sure if his route goes to the same summit or to a different pinnacle further west.
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