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The Wailing Wall is a beautiful fin of red sandstone in the southern half of the canyon, and home to the hardest routes in the park. The quality of rock is similar to that of the other walls and reminiscent of the Whale. There are, however, more loose flakes than other walls and a lot of dust since this area sees very little action. Iím hoping this will change; this is a great wall with great routes and will benefit from more traffic. There are 14 routes currently established on the Wailing Wall: five 10s, five 11s and four 12s. The wall is fairly steep, there are numerous features that make for interesting climbing and the routes are challenging and sustained. If youíre looking to up your game from what is available elsewhere in the park, this wall is for you.
Head up the gravel road from the parking lot, past all the east canyon walls. Just past the intersection of the road and the main hiking trail, look for a climberís trail to the right, across from the vicinity of the cave. This trail will split, leading right to the north end of the wall, the other fork paralleling the wall as it meanders to the south. There are few established access routes to the wall; please take care to limit your impact and access the wall only along what faint trails you find. Movement along the base of the wall can be difficult.
3 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Wailing Wall:
Like Bookends 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
El Supremo Grande 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Featured Route For The Wailing Wall
Like Bookends 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a CO : Colorado Springs : ... : The Wailing Wall
The crux on Like Bookends is the start of the route. Work up to the first bolt on smears and tiny edges and be sure to have a good spotter, that first bolt is about 15í up. Continue up on small holds and sustained climbing, past a couple large vertical flakes. Passing the fourth bolt the terrain is much lower angle, but still fairly dicey, as the holds are pretty much non-existent and it will be quite slick if thereís a lot of dust on the route. Above, move into the large flakes on steep gro...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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